Gas in the oil.
January 27th, 2019, 3:03 PM
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Gas in the oil.
My 1967 c20 with a 292 has one engine issue. There’s gas in the oil. I really like the truck, and it’s really concerning. The engine runs amazing and it’s been negative temps and it starts right up..... I put a new fuel pump on it because I figured that’s what was wrong. Nope, I also rebuilt the carb, nope, what can it be!? It didn’t used to do this. Currently school is in so I don’t have a job. If anyone can tell me what’s up that’d be great. Thanks!
January 27th, 2019, 3:08 PM
#2
CF Monarch
My 1967 c20 with a 292 has one engine issue. There’s gas in the oil. I really like the truck, and it’s really concerning. The engine runs amazing and it’s been negative temps and it starts right up..... I put a new fuel pump on it because I figured that’s what was wrong. Nope, I also rebuilt the carb, nope, what can it be!? It didn’t used to do this. Currently school is in so I don’t have a job. If anyone can tell me what’s up that’d be great. Thanks!
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Jwhite007 (August 17th, 2023)
January 27th, 2019, 8:06 PM
#5
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Ok, old link. If the float is set too high, you will flood the carb with gas. Rule of thumb, with the top of carb off, hold it upside down, the float should close the needle valve with the float level (parrallel) with the carb body. Also make sure the float dosen't have a hole in it, simple to just set it in a cup of water, floats, it's ok.
January 27th, 2019, 11:38 PM
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Ok thanks for the advice! Michigan’s awful weather cancelled school so I’m gonna work on this tomorrow. I appreciate the help. Do you know how I can test to see if it’ll still have an issue? Like I said, right now school is in and I don’t make any money. So I can’t afford to keep running synthetic that is being destroyed. Also I took off my edelbrock fuel filter because it would stall the truck. Kinda wierd, also when I make a sharp turn the engine stalls , but recovers when I straighten out, I’m guessing this is float?
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January 29th, 2019, 7:50 AM
#8
CF Monarch
The carb kits used to come with some cardboard gauges, along with new gaskets, ***** and springs.
Your kit should have come with a new needle vavle
You really want that carb clean. Id use high pressure air to blow out the pasages. Real trick is to find the right ***** for its proper place snd keep them there as you reassemble the carb, and get the screws on tight in a rotating fashion like head bolts ate
Gonna need a vacuum guage to set up the idle screws too, although you can wing it it won't be
correct. You don't want to warp the float cover.
Your kit should have come with a new needle vavle
You really want that carb clean. Id use high pressure air to blow out the pasages. Real trick is to find the right ***** for its proper place snd keep them there as you reassemble the carb, and get the screws on tight in a rotating fashion like head bolts ate
Gonna need a vacuum guage to set up the idle screws too, although you can wing it it won't be
correct. You don't want to warp the float cover.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; January 29th, 2019 at 8:01 AM.
January 30th, 2019, 9:48 PM
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February 5th, 2019, 9:31 PM
#10
CF Monarch
LOL!!!
I have seen and worked on too many, all the way back to high school auto shop. Need your carburetor worked on? Ask oilcanhenry. They would ask me to fix the issue, including rebuilding them. I hope I never see a carburetor again, particularly the Rochester Quadrajet, which most DIY still could not repair and set up properly. I'd take a Holley any day if I ever needed to replace a carburetor for a new brand, although Carter (now Edlebrock) are not too bad.
Holley carbs were very popular for anyone who used to have something like a Blazer or a 4WD pickup for verticle climbing without too much flooding, back in the day. My old 258 CI Jeep CJ-5 used a Carter two barrel carb, but it did well on steep climbs.
The AMC 304 CI was more powerful, but it was not as reliable, nor had did it have the outright torque of a 258 CI mill. The distributor sitting on the front of the Jeep engine didnt help in deep water crossings at all, as the radiator fan would knock it out,when it hit the water. Mine had a Prestolite Ignition system like nothing I have ever seen, so it just kept on going.
Sad to see the inline 6 cylinder motors all but gone now. Those engines would run forever it almost seemed, if you took good care of them. Proof is right there even now. You can't buy a US designed V8 class 8 diesel truck engine. They are all inline six cylinders now. and have been for many years.
I have seen and worked on too many, all the way back to high school auto shop. Need your carburetor worked on? Ask oilcanhenry. They would ask me to fix the issue, including rebuilding them. I hope I never see a carburetor again, particularly the Rochester Quadrajet, which most DIY still could not repair and set up properly. I'd take a Holley any day if I ever needed to replace a carburetor for a new brand, although Carter (now Edlebrock) are not too bad.
Holley carbs were very popular for anyone who used to have something like a Blazer or a 4WD pickup for verticle climbing without too much flooding, back in the day. My old 258 CI Jeep CJ-5 used a Carter two barrel carb, but it did well on steep climbs.
The AMC 304 CI was more powerful, but it was not as reliable, nor had did it have the outright torque of a 258 CI mill. The distributor sitting on the front of the Jeep engine didnt help in deep water crossings at all, as the radiator fan would knock it out,when it hit the water. Mine had a Prestolite Ignition system like nothing I have ever seen, so it just kept on going.
Sad to see the inline 6 cylinder motors all but gone now. Those engines would run forever it almost seemed, if you took good care of them. Proof is right there even now. You can't buy a US designed V8 class 8 diesel truck engine. They are all inline six cylinders now. and have been for many years.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; February 5th, 2019 at 9:48 PM.