Lessons Learned
May 25th, 2014, 6:59 AM
#1
Lessons Learned
This is more toward the crowd with smaller engines...
Unless you're racing and should be using straight pipes, Always replace the
resonator(s)/inline muffler(s) with the longest(or two or four smaller) Thrush glass pack you can fit under. This will change the mid-range drone into a deep growl when using aftermarket performance mufflers. Used with more restrictive OE type mufflers, it will be quieter @ cruise while still having a better growl when floored. Walker/Tenneco owns both Dynomax and Thrush. They were contracted to make the first
"turbo" muffler for the '62-64 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Spyder. The Dynomax Super Turbo flows and sounds better(less "tin") using its flow directors than the Hush Thrush/Mad Red muffler, but usually costs $20 more. Yes, Thrush still has the original "turbo" design as well, but is more for sound effects(more "tin") and value because its below the Mad's construction. Speaking of sound effects, its been proven time and time again Flowmaster is for just that. I've used the Super 10s and Delta 50s, and they don't come close to the efficiency and tone of Dynomax, especially the Ultra Flo Wielded. But it all boils down to how you want your
vehicle to sound(deep vs high), I've just given you more tools.
For value and creativity, you can't beat Spectre Performance - Air Filters, Cold Air Intakes & Automotive and Hot Rod Accessories. The filters are as good as K&N and you can design the intake tube(s) however you want. Plastic sections are usually available at most auto parts, while the tougher aluminum bits are on the site and in the bigger stores. To the "cold air" users: ever notice most Hornet racers strap the filter directly to the throttle body? I use the shortest ram I can for throttle response. Btw make sure, if you're using a short ram, that all old OEM intake pieces(resonators/silencers) are removed from inside the fender, etc. They are obstructions to the cone filter after all...
Synthetic oil(and some dino juice) is becoming even more durable nowadays, and does not need to be dumped at the first interval. Check your oil every other fuel stop on its condition. If you have a clean engine and the oil is still light brown and does not smell of fuel, you should be able to just change the filter and top off. It's recommended you don't try this more than three times. I use standard Royal Purple for the engine and ATF, Mobile 1 before that. NAPA Gold filters(or even better, Platinum) are the same 'glass type that Royal Purple, Mobile 1, Bosch, K&N, etc. are and usually cost $3-5 less. Looking into so I don't have to switch to Royal Purple HPS to have zinc and more anti-wear additives. I've now found out that my car is more efficient using RP 5w20 vs 5w30. The '20 is also a little cheaper for now.
Spark plugs, simple thing is to find your engine's heat index(mine's 6) through message boards or else where. You'd be surprised that my NGK V-power coppers do better than most platinums. And Iridiums(if not OEM) are usually meant for tuned engines with supercharging(turbo, blower, NOS, etc.). Update: the single platinum(my ignition can't use double Laser Platinums) G-powers are better than the V-Ps. And, after what my mechanic's "assistant" did to my ignition wires, I now know NGK ignition wires are Way better than the rest as well...just make sure you check the price on Amazon first($37 vs $90 Autozone ordered).
I've got a little over 103,000 and still under a bumper-to-bumper warranty...
Warranty Direct that is. Saved my tail from its only major repair: water pump failure/blown head gasket with $0 deductible. Only problem was that my mechanic hadn't sent them the towing bill, so they thought I drove it there after the failure. This argument caused me not remember to ask the machinist if he could groove the head and will now cost me $780
to pull it back off since I don't have a garage or shop anymore. After this was resolved, never had another problem with them. Unlike the coverage(loop holes) I had with Diamond Warranty on the Z34.
Last but not least, check pricing of all your stuff through Amazon, Ebay, Autoplicity(new),Rock Auto(new), and Car-Part(salvage) to make sure you're getting the best deals.
Btw, here are my designs. Don't fret, the Forenza is a rebadged GM Korea/Chevy(Top Gear Lacetti) and its design is along the small lines as the Sonic/Aveo. I had a Black '93 Z34 and Dark Green '04 Cavalier Sport before that.
Unless you're racing and should be using straight pipes, Always replace the
resonator(s)/inline muffler(s) with the longest(or two or four smaller) Thrush glass pack you can fit under. This will change the mid-range drone into a deep growl when using aftermarket performance mufflers. Used with more restrictive OE type mufflers, it will be quieter @ cruise while still having a better growl when floored. Walker/Tenneco owns both Dynomax and Thrush. They were contracted to make the first
"turbo" muffler for the '62-64 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Spyder. The Dynomax Super Turbo flows and sounds better(less "tin") using its flow directors than the Hush Thrush/Mad Red muffler, but usually costs $20 more. Yes, Thrush still has the original "turbo" design as well, but is more for sound effects(more "tin") and value because its below the Mad's construction. Speaking of sound effects, its been proven time and time again Flowmaster is for just that. I've used the Super 10s and Delta 50s, and they don't come close to the efficiency and tone of Dynomax, especially the Ultra Flo Wielded. But it all boils down to how you want your
vehicle to sound(deep vs high), I've just given you more tools.
For value and creativity, you can't beat Spectre Performance - Air Filters, Cold Air Intakes & Automotive and Hot Rod Accessories. The filters are as good as K&N and you can design the intake tube(s) however you want. Plastic sections are usually available at most auto parts, while the tougher aluminum bits are on the site and in the bigger stores. To the "cold air" users: ever notice most Hornet racers strap the filter directly to the throttle body? I use the shortest ram I can for throttle response. Btw make sure, if you're using a short ram, that all old OEM intake pieces(resonators/silencers) are removed from inside the fender, etc. They are obstructions to the cone filter after all...
Synthetic oil(and some dino juice) is becoming even more durable nowadays, and does not need to be dumped at the first interval. Check your oil every other fuel stop on its condition. If you have a clean engine and the oil is still light brown and does not smell of fuel, you should be able to just change the filter and top off. It's recommended you don't try this more than three times. I use standard Royal Purple for the engine and ATF, Mobile 1 before that. NAPA Gold filters(or even better, Platinum) are the same 'glass type that Royal Purple, Mobile 1, Bosch, K&N, etc. are and usually cost $3-5 less. Looking into so I don't have to switch to Royal Purple HPS to have zinc and more anti-wear additives. I've now found out that my car is more efficient using RP 5w20 vs 5w30. The '20 is also a little cheaper for now.
Spark plugs, simple thing is to find your engine's heat index(mine's 6) through message boards or else where. You'd be surprised that my NGK V-power coppers do better than most platinums. And Iridiums(if not OEM) are usually meant for tuned engines with supercharging(turbo, blower, NOS, etc.). Update: the single platinum(my ignition can't use double Laser Platinums) G-powers are better than the V-Ps. And, after what my mechanic's "assistant" did to my ignition wires, I now know NGK ignition wires are Way better than the rest as well...just make sure you check the price on Amazon first($37 vs $90 Autozone ordered).
I've got a little over 103,000 and still under a bumper-to-bumper warranty...
Warranty Direct that is. Saved my tail from its only major repair: water pump failure/blown head gasket with $0 deductible. Only problem was that my mechanic hadn't sent them the towing bill, so they thought I drove it there after the failure. This argument caused me not remember to ask the machinist if he could groove the head and will now cost me $780
to pull it back off since I don't have a garage or shop anymore. After this was resolved, never had another problem with them. Unlike the coverage(loop holes) I had with Diamond Warranty on the Z34.
Last but not least, check pricing of all your stuff through Amazon, Ebay, Autoplicity(new),Rock Auto(new), and Car-Part(salvage) to make sure you're getting the best deals.
Btw, here are my designs. Don't fret, the Forenza is a rebadged GM Korea/Chevy(Top Gear Lacetti) and its design is along the small lines as the Sonic/Aveo. I had a Black '93 Z34 and Dark Green '04 Cavalier Sport before that.
Last edited by DragonHEF01; March 3rd, 2015 at 10:21 PM.
June 19th, 2014, 9:49 PM
#3
A few more suggestions
Seems like a lot of people still have problems with spark plugs. Simple thing is to find your engine's heat index through message boards or else where. You'd be surprised that my NGK V-power coppers do better than most plantinums. And Iridiums(if not OEM) are usually meant for tuned engines with supercharging(turbo, blower, NOS, etc.). Hope it goes well,
Last edited by DragonHEF01; August 9th, 2014 at 8:55 AM.
June 19th, 2014, 10:36 PM
#4
Seems like a lot of people still have problems with spark plugs. Simple thing is to find your engine's heat index through message boards or else where. You'd be surprised that my NGK V-power coppers do better than most plantinums. And Iridiums are usually meant for tuned engines with supercharging(turbo, blower, NOS, etc.). Hope it goes well,
I love my AC Delco rapidfires. I gapped them myself.
I'm not stroked and blown yet.. but we'll see.
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