I think it does for the theft deterrent. try it without and if the padlock symbol comes on and if it no cranks you will need programming. See what dtc sets, maybe a theft deterrent relearn might work. There may be a non scan tool procedure. If it does not....dealer programming... expect 1 hour labour charge.


ultimately, it would be best to have it dealer programmed; just to have the correct vehicle vin and options set up.

 

Appreciate the reply.

That's actually welcome news. As long as the only likely impact would be on theft deterrent it's a moot concern. Theft deterrent (e.g. remote entry) hasn't worked for quite some time (over a year). I hesitated having that reprogrammed/repaired as thought of installing an integrated remote start has been on the table.

 

no, theft deterrent immobilizer...not remote entry or content theft...what I am talking about is; it won't crank due to the theft release passwords not matching up due to the change in modules.

 

Argh! The smarter these vehicles get the stupider we get (i.e. Our ability to shade-tree it).

 

Just getting back to this vehicle after addressing a family member's health issue.

This morning I attempted the "30 Minute Learn Procedure" but noticed something that deviated from the following instructions:
Regarding steps #2 & #3 -- Upon turning key to the ON position SECURITY telltale illuminates for 5 seconds before turning off. Continuing with step #2 by placing the key in the START position and then allowing it to return to the ON position the SECURITY telltale again remains illuminated for 5 seconds prior to turning off. Based on the wording in step #3 I was expecting illumination for the better half of 10 minutes. If so, could this have significance? (Guess I should verify -- "SECURITY telltale" is the cluster icon depicting a vehicle with lock overlay, correct?)

Unfortunately, as is, performing the "30 Minute Learn Procedure" proved no benefit.

I've attached an updated and annotated schematic. >>>

Thanks!

 

if you put a used module in and the relearn is unsuccessful; the dealer will have to program it.

 

Appreciate the reply tech2!

As for your comment on used modules -- Getting so much conflicting info that I'm now hesitant to acquire a used one even with matching numbers and for a relatively inexpensive $40. The latest I've been told is these modules are burn-once making them unusable in anything other than original VIN. The local specialized auto electronics diagnostics/repair shop state they'll only replace with factory-new modules for this reason. They may be blowing smoke but having been out of the business for some time now tech has passed me by and I get surprised by nothing nowadays. Btw, if there is an outside chance of using a used unit did your last post imply the "30 Minute Learn Procedure" could be equivalent to use of a TECH2 (or similar) for initializing a compatible module to a different vehicle?

My previous post was mainly inquiring whether or not the SECURITY telltale being lit for only a few seconds during the learn procedure was indicative of a specific problem? I interpreted in step #3 that the light should remain lit for a longer period of time.

 

haven't swapped anything 2011 and newer but I have done the older stuff and it is indeed flashable. when you reflash it you type the new vin in and program it into the used module.

a new unit will definitely need programming from the dealer.







Are you getting any theft dtc at this point?

 

Time, logistics and the local repair facility are making this vehicle repair a nightmare.

Before I miss it again (sorry). .. tech2 no, there is no theft DTC present.

The following is just gory details of my repair facility experience. For only the question that prompts this post please skip to the last sentence.

I was finally able to get my mom's Malibu to the local automotive electrical specialist repair shop. After the initial 1 hour diagnosis they advised of getting an anomaly at the PCM via the GMLAN lines. At this time they requested an additional 6.5 hours labor to pin test the PCM & BCM. I balked for a moment and they reduced it to 4 hours; as I simply wanted to get the job completed I agreed. Was called the next day and told a PCM was required. Out of the kindness of their heart it was offered that they could get a tested used PCM for 1/3 the price of new. I agreed. The next afternoon they called to say the repaired vehicle was ready for pick up.

When I went to pick up the Malibu the tech cornered me in the lot and advised -- While the vehicle now starts it does have a lit MIL and several DTCs. They are P0315 (crank sensor), P0700 (general trans fault) & P2534 (ignition switch circuit low). I had only one DTC prior to bringing the vehicle in and it was an O2 Sensor fault. The tech asks me to drive the vehicle for the weekend to see if they self-clear (we all know that will not happen) and bring it back if they do not. He also indicated there would be an additional charge to diagnose these DTCs. Pretty ticked off at the assumed customer ignorance I just wanted to get the vehicle out of there to regroup for plan of attack. Paid my bill and as soon as I pulled out of the lot it was immediately apparent the trans was in fail-safe and limping away in 2nd gear. Should have just turned around and run it into their shop but decided to take it the three miles home and call to advise. Was asked to bring it in first thing Monday morning.

Upon bringing it back the tech reiterated his mantra. He got it to start now the additional (new to me) DTCs are a completely seperate issues. After repeated questioning as to what checks at minimum he performed based on these codes he only (after my asking explicitly about it) said a Crank Relearn Procedure was performed. That I'm highly skeptical of...considering. I understand that it's always possible someone could "hide" DTCs and claim they were a product of the repair but for a tech not to perform at least the minimum of diagnostics after installing a used tested PCM would never have been allowed in my days as a Mitsu factory tech.

I was able to talk them out of the original PCM and when I got home swapped the two and sure enough it does not crank (same as before) so the replacement PCM does allow for it to crank and run but I highly suspect it's not 100% compatible.

Interesting notes: Tech advised he spent in excess of 12 diagnostics hours. His pin test procedure included ALL BCM & PCM pin-in/pin-outs, not just relevant circuits. This seems to me either inept, OCD or...

My question is -- Original PCM is #12629019 and replacement is #12611549. Is the latter a compatible PCM for an '09 Malibu LT L4 2.4L?

 

call a dealership parts counter and ask them to search the 2 numbers. It may be an updated part number that supersedes the old part number.