Well I've been trying to find the cause of this noise for almost two months now. On my 4wd 99 jimmy, when I'm driving down the road and I reach 35mph up to about 75mph I get a very loud tire-like noise (low pitched WAH WAH WAH WAH WAH sound) and a small vibration.

About 3 weeks ago I decided to balance my tires at work and I found that both of my rear tires had massive bulges in them due to belt seperations so I figured that had to be the cause of the noise. So I bought 4 brand new tires and balanced them out perfect myself. The noise didn't go away.

So I put the truck back on the lift and checked all the suspension parts, wheel bearings are still tight, the pitman arm is brand new, the control arm bushings are all good, all four tie rods are brand new, all ball joints are less then 1 year old and still all good, all u-joints are less than 6 months old and still good, brake pads, rotor, and calipers are all in perfect working order, idler arm is brand new, I did an alignment about a month ago so I know the alignment is perfect. CV joints are all good still. I really don't know what else to check, does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Hi frickenbored,

How are you doing today?

I was getting a low "WUZZZZNN" noise on curves to the right over 40MPH. Also a squeaky bedspring noise at parking lot speeds.(sorta like newlyweds going at it on a cheap bed).

It turned out to be the Driver side hub bearing.
The passenger side went out a month later, but different noises and symptoms.
(Also with the bedspring noise, which seems to be the constant/tipoff) Any help?

 

yea I thought it could be wheel bearings but their both still pretty tight...I'm going to lift it up in the air, put it in 4wd and drive, then I'll listen to both wheel bearings closer. I have heard of them going bad but still staying tight.

 

yes they do go and stay tight, best to check them

 

Yeah, and they cost a damn fortune, too. Parts alone on my K2500 was 340$ per side, just for the bearings.(Bower/BCA) Sorry to be the bearer of sad tidings.

 

turns out its an upper ball joint thats BLOWN OUT. Reason I didn't catch it was because when I lifted it at work I lifted it from the frame and the suspension all drooped down and it took up the slack in the ball joint. I lifted it from the lower control arm at home and there it was. I could move that tire in and out almost 2 inches, the ball joint is ready to just come apart. Thats what I get for using duralast parts, already got a moog it replace it.

And yea those wheel bearings aren't cheap, I replaced the left wheel bearing about two years ago and it was $150 for the assembly and the new wheel speed sensor (I believe it might have been trw?). I'm glad mine arent $350!

And to answer from earlier, I'm doing pretty good. You?

 

I'm OK, thanks.

I'm halfway through a new speaker install on my crewcab. Just hope these BAs are all they're cracked up to be. They're rated to handle my amp wattage, the MBQuart tweeters blew because the rated wattage turned out to be 27RMS watts per channel more than the advertised wattage when I ordered the system last year.

Needless to say,(and @1100$ down the toilet) I certainly hope this rectifies the problem...

 

Throwing money down the toilet....yea I know how that feels, it sucks.

 

I just had an eye-opening exchange with Boston Acoustic's customer service department, it appears they're about the only thing that sucks worse than their speaker hardware.

I certainly hope those speakers are half as good as they're cracked up to be.
Because PIONEER and many other fine manufacturers have great products at half the price, and THEIR customer service would have to go out of it's way to be worse than BA's.