1967 283 with points ignition. Setting up on run/test stand. Presently have a wire running from the + battery to the + side of coil with an off/on switch. Coil reads battery voltage both sides; nominal 12v, so I don't think there's an internal resistor. Do I need a resistor in the wiring? If so, please provide specs for the resistor.

 

I think what you are reffering to is the electronic ignition change over. On the starter solenoid you have (besides battery cable) two terminals. One is from the ignition (crank) switch, the other would be through a resistor to the ignition coil. Full battery voltage at crank, then lesser with engine running. With points, and points ignition coil, you don't need it.

 

Let me rephrase that, during crank, the resistor is bypassed until the crank is released, then in parrallel is the ignition voltage supply, without full battery voltage through the resistor.

 

67`s came with an internal resistor. The outside of the two smaller posts on the solenoid does not have battery voltage on it until the solenoid is engaged. A wire should be run from there directly to the positive post on the coil "IF" you have a coil with an internal resistor. If ur coil doesn`t have an internal resistor, it`ll still crank and run but the coil will soon get too hot and fail. If you determine that ur coil doesn`t have a internal resistor, buy one for an early 70`s or late 60`s Chrysler product. It`ll be about the size of ur index finger and be made of white ceramic. Set ur points to .019 or 28-32 degrees dwell. Try ur timing around 8 degrees BTDC.