Starting and Instrument cluster issue
September 18th, 2009, 1:58 PM
#1
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Starting and Instrument cluster issue
To start it off, vehicle stats
2002 S-10 2.2 4cyl
Automatic 2WD Single cab
66000miles
About 2 weeks ago I had replaced the spark plugs and engine air filter. About 3 days later, started up the truck and all the instrument lights started to blink at me with the truck running and the stereo clock resets itself. Started driving, after a short bit the lights went out in the dash and then truck then continued to act normal. 3 days later, truck started to have starting issues. Wouldn't start up on the first crank, or would start up after a prolonged crank (5-10 seconds). 2nd crank always started. My truck sits all day at work (6-8hrs). When I'd go to start after getting off of work it'll do the same thing. This issue happens intermittently. And the instrument cluster blinking has only happened 2 or 3 times. Then starting the truck up this morning, my check engine light came on. Vehicles doesn't seem to run any different than normal.
I replaced the battery just under a year ago, the current one has a little corrosion on the postive cable I've been combating to stay at bay from the last battery. I checked the power cable running to the alternator from the battery and the ground connector, just to make sure I didn't loosin it accidentally when I was putting the intake back on during the spark plug service. They were good. I only disconnected two plugs during the service, the maf sensor on the intake and the connector for the AC compressor, both of which were reconnected well before starting up the truck after plug service.
Wondering if anyone has seen this or know a quick fix? I'll try and see if I can get my codes scanned tonight, see what's stored in the ECU.
Thanks in Advance!
2002 S-10 2.2 4cyl
Automatic 2WD Single cab
66000miles
About 2 weeks ago I had replaced the spark plugs and engine air filter. About 3 days later, started up the truck and all the instrument lights started to blink at me with the truck running and the stereo clock resets itself. Started driving, after a short bit the lights went out in the dash and then truck then continued to act normal. 3 days later, truck started to have starting issues. Wouldn't start up on the first crank, or would start up after a prolonged crank (5-10 seconds). 2nd crank always started. My truck sits all day at work (6-8hrs). When I'd go to start after getting off of work it'll do the same thing. This issue happens intermittently. And the instrument cluster blinking has only happened 2 or 3 times. Then starting the truck up this morning, my check engine light came on. Vehicles doesn't seem to run any different than normal.
I replaced the battery just under a year ago, the current one has a little corrosion on the postive cable I've been combating to stay at bay from the last battery. I checked the power cable running to the alternator from the battery and the ground connector, just to make sure I didn't loosin it accidentally when I was putting the intake back on during the spark plug service. They were good. I only disconnected two plugs during the service, the maf sensor on the intake and the connector for the AC compressor, both of which were reconnected well before starting up the truck after plug service.
Wondering if anyone has seen this or know a quick fix? I'll try and see if I can get my codes scanned tonight, see what's stored in the ECU.
Thanks in Advance!
September 19th, 2009, 3:50 PM
#2
More than likely, your battery cables ate your last battery.
Bad news: The same cables(mechanics know this and they want the extra business dirty cables bring) will eat your starter, alternator and new battery.
Good news: Replace the "Big Three" yourself (for less than 30$) and save yourself a TON of grief down the road.
1) Positive cable-
2) Negative cable
3) Engine/Body groundstrap (usually found between the back/top of your engine and your firewall)
Bad news: The same cables(mechanics know this and they want the extra business dirty cables bring) will eat your starter, alternator and new battery.
Good news: Replace the "Big Three" yourself (for less than 30$) and save yourself a TON of grief down the road.
1) Positive cable-
2) Negative cable
3) Engine/Body groundstrap (usually found between the back/top of your engine and your firewall)
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