Tranny Fluid leak
#1
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Hello under my car I have a rubber hose connected to metal pipe that goes to the top of my engine, the metal pipe is held down with a clip and at the clip it is leaking red fluid (tranny fluid I suppose). If I got some good rubber tubing and some clamps could i cut the peice of metal piping that has a hole in it and replace it with this?
#2
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Hi mikeythe613,
Welcome to the Chevy Forums.
Whatever it is doesn't sound high pressure, so I'd say that's do-able.
Why is tranny fluid being sucked into your engine? Bad shift modulator, possibly?
Has your idle gotten a little rough? Seeing white smoke at startup? Is your 1-2 shift a little lumpy?
And BTW, what's the year, make, and model of your vehicle? What's the mileage? Check your tranny fluid at the dipstick, is it low?
Welcome to the Chevy Forums.
Whatever it is doesn't sound high pressure, so I'd say that's do-able.
Why is tranny fluid being sucked into your engine? Bad shift modulator, possibly?
Has your idle gotten a little rough? Seeing white smoke at startup? Is your 1-2 shift a little lumpy?
And BTW, what's the year, make, and model of your vehicle? What's the mileage? Check your tranny fluid at the dipstick, is it low?
#4
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It sounds like a tranny cooler line, and it runs up to an endtank in your radiator, or an external cooler infront of your radiator (I think both are used in my parents 3500 express van. (internal and external)
I dont know auto trans super well, but iirc its line pressure going through the cooler that can be up around 250 +/- psi at times (chrysler) plus from the cooler ATF goes to the lubrication circuit NOT a circuit you want running dry after the hose pops off.
Piece of mind, I would lean toward just replacing the entire hose assembly. I *personally* would not replace a worn portion of metal line without having a ****** fitting to attach the rubber hose to. (why is b-a-r-b-e-d edited out lol)
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Good luck!
I dont know auto trans super well, but iirc its line pressure going through the cooler that can be up around 250 +/- psi at times (chrysler) plus from the cooler ATF goes to the lubrication circuit NOT a circuit you want running dry after the hose pops off.
Piece of mind, I would lean toward just replacing the entire hose assembly. I *personally* would not replace a worn portion of metal line without having a ****** fitting to attach the rubber hose to. (why is b-a-r-b-e-d edited out lol)
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Good luck!
Last edited by stupidnoob; June 14th, 2010 at 1:57 PM.
#5
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Hello thank you for all your advice, I ended up switching both lines because they both looked damaged and it worked the car ran without problems. However this morning I took it out and at a red light about 4 blocks away my car slipped and i couldnt get into any gear i reved it a few times turned it off looked under it and fluid was everywhere. I need a longer hose and two clamps, i only had a short piece left and used it thats why i think it blew.
I have a question
a) do you think reving it a few times blew my tranny
I have a question
a) do you think reving it a few times blew my tranny
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#8
CF Senior Member
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real quick hint to auto trans cooler lines. just about every trans cooler line does not see line pressure. it sees generally 9-15ish psi. think about it, how efficient would cooling be if you have fluid rushing through the cooler. slower the better and more efficient. and on newer model cars, theres a thermostatic bypass valve, which will stay closed(trans fluid cold) until desired temp is attained then valve opens and starts circulating fluid and cooling the trans. it helps to get the vehicle warmer faster, and also helps the trans. if your torque converter didnt have a stator in it, trans fluid would never exceed 100 degrees. the sheering fluid force generated by the stator is what generates the most heat. just a lil fyi.
#9
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Thanks for all the tips, its actually is the trans cooler lines in the front there was two of them held by a clip and they bother were leaking, about 4 or 5 inches from the hole was a rubber hose so i left about 2 and a half inches of pipe attached to the hose and cut off the damaged pipe and extended the hose with new hose. Suprizingly I think the pressure was higher then that but maybe im wrong, it just seems it was more because it was spraying really bad
#10
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yeah, off the T/C it is directed to the cooling circuit then lube circuit, not the hydraulic circuits. A quick glance at a hydraulic schematics (chrysler), shows with the tq converter clutch off pressure through the cooler is like 15-80psi, with the t/c clutch applied pressure can be up to 115psi. bypass vlaves will bypass the cooler is pressure differential is greater than 40-50psi so you must at least occationally have more pressure than that to have a differential.
Thank you for sheading light on my misinformation!
Thank you for sheading light on my misinformation!
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