Timmay2

I've looked online and it appears there are alot of people whove had rotors warp in as little as 7,000 miles.

I just picked up (out of state) a 2007 impala with 25,000 miles. On the way back, i noticed when i had to brake firmly the front end shook violently.

Dealers say they dont warranty brake rotors and informedme the pads arent even stock. (What car needspads before 25,000 miles?!?!)customer care denies knowing of the issue, and they pretty much ignored me when i said i just bought this "Certified" car.

Anyone have suggestions on dealing with them? I can maybe understand if the previous owner rode the brakes hard, but im finding others out there with the same problem on very low milage cars.. and to top it off this was sold as certified.. So at least if certified it shouldve been inspected and repaired before sale, right?

Am i wrong to think this is their problem?


I'm tryingto compile a list of known failures, so if you have a late model impala feel free to add to this.

Failure at:
19,000 miles
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Chevrol...d_rotors.shtml

Failure at 21,000 miles
http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question...4195904AAYbjtC

Failure at 7,000 miles is the earliest, but there are multiple complaints.
http://www.aboutautomobile.com/compl...EVROLET/IMPALA

Failure at 19,000 miles
https://chevroletforum.com/m_73317/tm.htm

rbarrios

Ive heard the same stories about Impalas and trailblazers... that the rotors are junk..........BUT.....
We havea 2007 Impala and a 2003 Trailblazer........

03 Trailblazer... factory rotors have never been turned. Still has factory rear pads.. fronts were changed at 77,000 with about 20% pad left. and changed at about 125,000 with about 50% pad left... (I thought they needed replacing... but was very wrong. I went ahead and replaced pads in the front anyway... I had everything apart.. so why not..... Ill soon hit 127,000.

07 Impala. No problems with brakes. no pulsating, no nothing.. I just changed oil last night... it has 21,018 miles. (on a side note.....at 21,018, Oil has only been changed 4 times since we got the car).

I think many times.....its the way people drive. very aggressive.

xyzzyx

Just a comment from a newbie here.

I had the same problem with my 2003 Monte Carlo SS (which was "certified used GM"). The dealer turned the rotors and replaced the pads under warranty (because the pads were impacted by the bad rotors). When I asked why they would go bad after only 18K - he explained that the brakes would heat up after slowing down from highway driving and then the car would splash through cold water on the exit ramp (northern states snowy weather). After afew times of this happening - the rotors will warp.

My wifes car (2006 Bonneville GXP) - did the exact same thing at 25K (less highway driving). A different dealerdid the same thing to my wife's car and also chalked it up to warranty work.

After this happened a second time to the MC at 30K - I switched my car to NAPA rotors and ceramic brakes. Not the finest brakes in the world but 90K later - no problems and only minor brake dust.

I think GM is just using cheap quality rotors and pads and they are affected easily by fast temperature changes - thus warping. I wonder if most of the warped disc problems are in the colder climates?

I fully expect my 2008 50th Anniversary Impala (which I love) will be also be getting new brakes in the near future.

SLJ2137694

Repeat brake pulsation is usually caused by rotors that have some run-out in them when mounted. This run-out is caused by incorrect wheel nut torque, rust/dirt between the rotor to hub interface, etc. This run-out causes the brake pad to wear the rotor and cause thickness variation in the rotor which causes the caliper piston to go in and out on a brake apply. This piston movement feeds back as a pulsation. ALL GM Dealers have a comprehensive TSB and the special tools required to stop this problem. It is not poor quality rotors causing this.

mightydog4805

my mechanic told me to avoid hitting puddles when it is raining because when cold water hits hot brakes they tend to warp more.

i had the same pulsing feeling before I had my 2004 fixed. I had to replace the whole hub assembly too...that was a really nice bill

Gwampa

In response to Mr. Jones solution, what do you do if you don't want to or can't afford to have the dealership do the work?
Sounds like refacing (or truing-up) the rotors, cleaning mating surfaces on spindles and wheels both and installing new pads. Torquing wheel lug nuts properly too. Is this close? Or tell us the TSB#.
I'm all for helping GM, but they should have done this right at the factory and/or in engineering and not be providing an aftersale (and after warranty)profit center for the dealers (like they did on Dex-cool intake gaskets).

SLJ2137694

The following information, Part 1 and Part 2, was taken from TECH Link magazine dated Dec. 2004 and March 2006. This technical magazine is sent to GM Dealers once a month.

Part 1 Background, Measuring, and Cleaning

Earlier this year, bulletin 00-05-22-002D was released for the purpose of updating and centralizing all of GM’s standard brake service procedures and policy guidelines for brake rotor and brake pad service and wear (fig. 1). If you haven’t already done so, refer to this bulletin before performing your next GM brake service.

Over the next few months, TechLink will provide several brake articles featuring information from this bulletin, and in some cases expanding on it. You must observe the practices contained in the bulletin and in SI.

WHAT CONSTITUTES A SUCCESSFUL BRAKE SERVICE?
Five steps must be performed to complete a successful brake service.
1. Measure and document rotor thickness specifications in SI
2. Clean hub, rotor and wheel mating surfaces
3. Perform proper rotor refinish and documentation
4. Measure, document and correct lateral run out (LRO)
5. Reassemble with proper torque and document final rotor thickness

NECESSARY AND UNNECESSARY BRAKE SERVICE
Rotors
Contrary to general understanding, many rotors can be resurfaced rather than replaced. Rotors should not be replaced for “lot rot.” In a recent study, low mileage rotors were cleaned up with minimum of 77% of life remaining.

Rotors should not be replaced for pulsation. In a recent study, rotors under 12,000 miles (19,000 km) were cleaned up with minimum of 70% of life remaining.

TIP: Replacement for rotor flaking should be handled on a case by case basis.

Pads
Pads should not be replaced unless excessively worn, contaminated or damaged (fig 2).

TIP: If replacement is necessary, always replace disc brake pads in axle sets using OEM pads if repaired under warranty.

Brake pad replacement necessary under warranty:
- Substantial premature pad wear (see specific pad specifications/gaps/wear sensor information in SI).
- Damaged pad friction surfaces (cracks, fractures, separation from mounting plates or other issues that could impair brake performance).
- Uneven vehicle side-to-side/premature pad wear due to caliper issue requiring repair issue.
- Pad material contamination (oil, grease, etc.)

TIP: If pad replacement for one of these causes is performed, also perform and document repair to correct the cause of the concern.

Brake pad replacement unnecessary under warranty:
- Pads generally should not be replaced for noise concerns, unless specifically directed by a Bulletin addressing customer’s concern
- Pads should not be replaced just because rotors are being serviced.

DEFINITIONS OF CORROSION
Corrosion is caused by normal oxidation (rust) that is not cleaned off of the rotor by the pad but is impacted into the rotor.

Corrosion may cause owner complaints of pulsation or noise.

Corrosion may range from very light to heavy scaling.

Light Corrosion
Rusting on the rotor braking surfaces may occur when a vehicle is not driven for extended periods. Light surface rust is often cosmetic and can be eliminated during a few normal driving stops.

Perform 15 moderate stops from 35-40 mph (62-75 km/h) with cooling time between stops.

Light “Delamination”
“ Delamination” looks like a layer of paint flaking off the rotor. This layer is composed of rust and pad material. “Delamination” is NOT rotor surface degradation. Light flaking can normally be corrected by refinishing the rotor.

TIP: Pads generally do not require replacement for this condition.

Heavy Corrosion / Delamination
Heavy corrosion is characterized by rust scaling and deep pitting. This type of rotor corrosion may be too deep to machine and may require replacement of the rotor.

WHEN SHOULD A ROTOR BE REPLACED?
A rotor should not be replaced or refinished for:
- Noise/squeal
- Cosmetic corrosion
- Routine pad replacement
- Discoloration/hard spots

A rotor should be refinished for:
Severe scoring depth in excess of 0.060 inch (1.5 mm).
Pulsation concerns from:
- Thickness variation in excess of 0.001 inch (0.025 mm).
- Excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces.

BRAKE PULSATION
Pulsation is caused by thickness variation. Thickness variation is caused by corrosion or rotor lateral run-out.

Remember, a caliper floats in the steering knuckle. Parallel surfaces (no thickness variation) will NOT produce brake pulsation even with 0.010 inch (0.25 mm) or more lateral run-out.

Wear-induced thickness variation usually occurs 2,000-10,000 (3,200-16,000 km) after miles after rotor service. Lateral run-out can be cut into the rotor with an improperly maintained brake lathe.

On brake apply, a rotor with thickness variation will push the brake pads apart resulting in hydraulic movement through brake piping to the master cylinder and to the brake pedal.

CRITICAL DIMENSIONS OF A ROTOR
Here are some details about measuring a rotor.

TIP: Thickness measurements should be done with a brake micrometer (fig. 3), which has a pointed anvil and a deep throat.

Brake Rotor Thickness
SI provides three dimensions:
- New (original)
- Minimum after machining
- Discard (fig. 4)

TIP: If you subtract the minimum thickness after refinishing from the new thickness, the result is the amount of useful rotor life left.

TIP: Brake rotor thickness should be checked a final time just before you put the wheel back on the vehicle.

Rotor Thickness Variation

TIP: This measurement is used when addressing brake pulsation concerns.

The rotor should be measured in at least four places in the pad contact surface area.

SI calls for correction if the thickness variation exceeds 0.001 inch (0.025 mm).

Brake Rotor Scoring
Scoring greater than 0.060 inch (1.5 mm) requires correction. Scoring greater than 0.060 inch (1.5 mm) after machining requires rotor replacement.

Lateral Run-Out
Install a dial indicator, following SI procedures. Generally, the indicator is attached to the steering knuckle, with the plunger contacting the rotor braking surface at a right angle, and 0.25 inch (6.35 mm) from the outer edge (fig. 5).

On most GM passenger cars, if LRO is 0.002 inch (0.050 mm) or less, no correction is necessary. If LRO is over 0.002 inch (0.055 mm), correction is required.

TIP: An exception is the N-car specfication of 0.0015 inch (0.038 mm). Always check SI for specifications for the vehicle you’re working on.

CLEANING BRAKE COMPONENTS
One of the causes of excess lateral run out is foreign material between mating surfaces of rotor, hub, and wheel (fig. 6). These include debris, corrosion, flaking and grease.

You need to obtain clean metal-to-metal contact to get repeatable results. Pits aren’t so much of a problem as raised surfaces.

Clean rotor to hub mating surfaces using J-42450 Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit. The configuration of the tool permits it to fit over the mounting stud, to remove corrosion that cannot be reached by other methods (filg 7).

And, 80-grit abrasive discs and holder are available in the J-41013 Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit. This is useful in cleaning mounting surfaces in general (fig. 8).

FUTURE ARTICLES
Watch for future articles that will cover refinishing, LRO correction, final measurement and final assembly tips.
- Thanks to North Central Region Service Engineers and Field Warranty Specialists

Part 2 Refinishing and Lateral Run-Out (LRO) Correction

There are five steps which must be performed to complete a successful brake service.

1. Measure and document rotor thickness and thickness variation (fig. 1).
[/align]

2. Clean hub, rotor and wheel mating surfaces of all rust and debris to shiny surfaces.

3. Perform and document proper rotor refinish using either on-car or off-car lathe following the manufacturer’s directions.

4. Measure, document and correct existing lateral run-out (LRO) with Brake-Align correction plates.

5. Document final rotor thickness, reassemble wheel to hub with proper torque, and burnish the refinished rotors to the pads.

The first two steps were covered in Brake Service, Part 1 (TechLink, December 2004). The present article explains the remaining steps: rotor finishing and measuring, correcting LRO, final assembly and documentation.

TIP: Refer to bulletin 00-05-22-002F for GM’s standard brake service procedures. Another excellent information resource is Service Know-How Course 5040.01B Brake Pulsation Due to Lateral Runout.

IMPORTANT: These procedures and discussion are highlights of proper brake rotor service and are presented for general information. They are not comprehensive or specific to a certain model/year vehicle and are not intended as such. Always refer to procedures in SI, applicable factory service manuals and applicable Service Bulletins for complete procedures and specifications for the year and model vehicle you are working on.

ROTOR FINISHING

Critical characteristics of a brake rotor include:

- Surface finish

- Parallelism

- Perpendicularity to hub centerline

- Flatness

- LRO

Of these, only LRO and flatness can be measured; the brake lathe must provide the other characteristics.

On-Car vs. Off-Car Lathe

The purpose of machining a rotor is to produce two parallel surfaces with minimum LRO. Both types of lathe will do this, and both methods have considerations.

On-Car (fig. 2)
[/align]

- Portable

- Compensates for LRO

- Cuts captured rotors (TechLink Jan. 2004)

- Non-directional finish

- Requires more training

Off-Car (fig. 3)
[/align]

- Easier to set up

- Stationary location

- Substantial disassembly (or impossible to use) on captured rotor vehicles

- Does not compensate for LRO

TIP: Before machining a rotor on either kind of equipment, the hub and wheel sides of the rotor mounting flange must be cleaned to shiny metal on both sides.

Lathe Use and Inspection

A later article will present much greater detail about the critical care of both types of lathes. But before turning a rotor on any type of lathe, take the following into account.

Lathe Safety

- Lathe’s electrical cord, motor, switches, light(s) and belt(s) (as applicable) in good working condition

- Lathe clean and free of debris, rust and chips

- Safety shields, vibration dampers, other attachments clean and in good working order

- Cutting tools sharp and in good condition

- Operator wearing proper personal protection equipment

Correct any shortcomings before proceeding.

Lathe Inspection

Carefully inspect the bell clamps or adapters you are going to use. Their machined surfaces should be clean, free of rust and grease and not have any nicks or damage present. Any dirt or rust should be cleaned off and any nicks or damage should be removed with a stone. If the damage or rust is significant, the bell clamp or adapter should be verified and/or corrected before use. See TSB 00-05-22-002F or the Brake Pulsation Due to Lateral Runout Service Know-How video and booklet for details.

Inspect the lathe arbor (Off-Car) and lathe arbor shoulder (both On and Off-car) for any nicks, dirt or damage. Clean or repair as necessary as indicated above.

Verify that the adjustment and locking features of the lathe work smoothly and correctly. Verify the cutting head (Off-Car) moves freely in its ways without excessive slop. If necessary, disassemble and remove any chips, dirt or debris which prevent this and perform adjustments as indicated by the lathe manufacturer.

Vehicle/Hoist Inspection (On-Car Only)

Insure that the hoist supporting the vehicle is in good condition and supports the vehicle solidly

Make sure the vehicle’s wheel bearings, drive axle and suspension components (as appropriate) are in good condition without excessive play, damage or wear. Repair/replace components as necessary BEFORE attempting to turn a rotor on an On-Car lathe.

TIP: Failure to support a vehicle on a sturdy hoist may result in the On-Car lathe not being able to self compensate itself. If this occurs, move the vehicle to a suitable hoist or secure it fore/aft with jackstands as appropriate.

Rotor Cutting

Once the lathe equipment is verified to be in good operating order, cut the rotor to achieve a good finish according to the lathe manufacturer’s instructions.

Always do the math ahead of time, BEFORE beginning to cut. Properly measure the rotor with a brake micrometer to determine what your bottom depth is and how much rotor surface to remove. Remove only as much material as needed to obtain a smooth, even rotor surface. Make the cut in one pass, if it is within the lathe’s capability.

TIP: Equal amounts of material do not have to be removed from both sides of the rotor on a floating caliper system.

TIP: On a rotor surface with rust buildup, insure that the cut is deep enough to cut metal. Dragging the tool across rust will dramatically shorten its useful life.

Rotors generally can be turned and should NOT automatically be replaced for:

- Low mileage rust conditions (lot rot)

- Brake pulsation due to rust buildup or thickness variation induced from excessive LRO

- Minor rust accumulation which is flaking off

Refer to Brake Service, Part 1 (TechLink, Dec. 2004) as well as Bulletin 00-05-22-002F for more information.

Final Rotor Finishing and Cleaning

The rotor surface must have a non-directional finish. Follow the lathe manufacturer's recommendation for applying a non-directional finish using moderate pressure. If the lathe is equipped with a non-directional finishing tool, use 120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. If the lathe is not equipped with a non-directional finishing tool, use a sanding block and 150 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper.

Rotor Measurement

Before removing the rotor from the lathe (or on-car lathe from the rotor), be sure the rotor thickness is at or above the Minimum Thickness After Machining (sometimes called Minimum Machine) thickness specification in SI. (fig. 4)
[/align]

Discard a rotor that is not at or above minimum machine thickness. It cannot safely be placed back on a vehicle.

Remove all machining debris from the rotor surfaces to insure quiet brake operation. Failure to remove all minute metallic machining residue will result in significant brake squeal with some brake pad compounds.

The best method is thorough scrubbing with hot, soapy water. If you use an environmentally friendly hot tank washer, use brake cleaning spray to remove residual oil from the rotor surfaces.

MEASURING AND CORRECTING LATERAL RUN-OUT

TIP: Before installing the rotor to the hub, be sure there is no debris on the rotor or hub mating surfaces.

TIP: When installing a rotor on a hub, hold the rotor at the 5 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions to avoid dropping any residue from inside the rotor cooling vanes into the hub/rotor interface area.

Hold the rotor flat to the hub. Install J 45101-100 conical washers (A) and lug nuts (B) and finger tighten (fig. 5). Torque the lug nuts to SI specifications using a star pattern.
[/align]

A Conical washer

B Lug nut

TIP: Conical washers simulate the clamping load of the wheel on the rotor/hub interface to make an accurate LRO measurement.

TIP: Print the brake specifications from SI as handy reference during the repair. Attach it to the repair order as a permanent part of the vehicle history file to substantiate the specifications you were working with.

LATERAL RUNOUT (LRO) CORRECTION

IMPORTANT: Over time, excessive LRO causes thickness variation which causes brake pulsation. See the December 2004 TechLink as well as 00-05-22-002F.

This procedure involves placing a machined, tapered correction plate between the rotor and hub.

Install a dial indicator J 45101 (or equivalent) to the steering knuckle and position the indicator button so it contacts the brake rotor friction surface at a 90° angle, approximately 0.5 inch (13 mm) from the outer edge of the rotor (fig. 6).

[/align]
With the dial indicator installed, rotate the rotor until the lowest reading is displayed on the indicator dial and set the dial to zero. Rotate the rotor until the highest reading is displayed on the dial. Mark the location of the high spot relative to the nearest wheel stud, or studs. Mark the studs and rotor (fig. 7) to allow you to reinstall the rotor to the hub in the same index location. Record the amount of measured LRO on the repair order for the corner of the vehicle you are working on.
[/align]

Refer to LRO measurement procedures in SI. On most passenger cars, if LRO is greater than 0.002 inch (0.055 mm), correction is required. P-90/N-car specification is 0.0015 inch (0.038 mm). Always consult SI for the specifications for the model/year vehicle your are working on.

Select and document the appropriate correction plate. Use the Brake-Align application chart supplied with the plates. Brake-Align plates are numbered XXX-XX, where the first three numbers represent the type of hub they fit and the last two numbers represent the correction value in thousandths of an inch (03 gives 0.003-inch correction, 06 gives 0.006-inch correction and 09 gives 0.009-inch correction). Brake-Align plates come in only these three thicknesses. Select the appropriate correction plate as indicated below.

You are trying to get the total LRO as close to zero as possible. Because you are compensating a rotating device, it doesn’t matter if the values go positive or negative.

EXAMPLE: If the runout is 0.005-inch, the 0.006-inch plate would give you -0.001-inch LRO after installation. The 0.003-inch plate would bring you to +0.002-inch (which might be within spec) but the 0.006-inch plate minimizes the total LRO and gives a better repair.

With the rotor removed, install the plate (A) on the hub with the V-notch (B) at the high point previously marked (C) (fig. 8).
[/align]

A Plate

B V-notch

C High point mark

TIP: Brake-Align plates have a double wheel lug pattern of mounting holes to allow positioning the V-notch at a lug location or in between lugs, depending on the location of the high spot mark.

Install the rotor, observing the index marks you made earlier.

Hold the rotor flat to the hub, add a conical washer and finger-tighten the first lug nut. Repeat with the other lug nuts. Tighten to the specified torque, in a star pattern.

Confirm that LRO is within specification using the measurement procedure above.

Measure the final rotor thickness for that rotor in that position on that vehicle and record on the repair order.

Install the caliper and pads. Pad inspection and replacement guidelines were covered in part 1 and bulletin 00-05-22-002F.

Remove the lug nuts and conical washers; re-install the wheels, using the recommended lug torque and procedure.

Depress the brake pedal several times to take up changes in component clearance due to rotor refinishing and to secure the rotor in place.

Verify and adjust the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.

Brake-Align Tips

Brake-Align plates save you time. Using them is an approved repair procedure and they should be used to correct brake rotor LRO when it exceeds the specification. Brake-Align plates, properly used, give you repeatable, exact LRO correction results quickly.

TIP: The LRO Indexing Correction procedure in SI is valid to correct minor LRO variation. But you may need to bolt and un-bolt the rotor from the hub 4 or 5 times to get the lowest LRO measurement, which still may or may not be within the vehicle’s maximum LRO specification.

The most commonly used plates are the 0.003-inch and 0.006-inch. If rotor LRO measurements indicate the need for a 0.009-inch plate, determine EXACTLY where that LRO is coming from. First, remove the marked/indexed rotor from the hub and check the hub lateral surface for LRO with a dial indicator in the same method as above for checking the rotor. Place the indicator tip just outboard of the lug circle. Generally, most hub outer edges are approximately half the distance from the centerline of the axle to the area you were checking on the rotor. Using some geometry, it would be logical to expect this value to be approximately half of what you were seeing at the rotor, if 100% of the runout is in the hub.

EXAMPLE: You measured 0.011-inch LRO on the rotor. You disassembled the rotor from the hub and measured the outer edge of the hub and found 0.001-inch LRO. This would indicate that approximately 0.002-inch of your 0.011-inch total LRO is due to hub LRO.The rest is LRO in the rotor itself. If you have just cut that rotor, you need to take a very close look at your cleaning process and your lathe equipment.

TIP: Never re-use a Brake-Align correction plate. Never stack more than one Brake-Align correction plate on an individual hub.

FINAL DOCUMENTATION

At this point you should have performed the following measurements and recorded them on the repair order (or diagnostic worksheet as appropriate):

- Initial rotor thickness

- Rotor thickness variation measured in at least four equal places around the circumference of the rotor (if customer concern was brake pulsation)

- Final rotor thickness after machining (if rotor was turned)

- Assembled rotor lateral runout measured and recorded in thousandths of an inch so it can be coded for warranty purposes

- Brake-Align correction plate used (XXX-XX format)

- Final rotor thickness installed on the vehicle in its final position (left/right/front/rear)

BURNISHING PADS AND ROTORS

CAUTION: Road test a vehicle under safe conditions and while obeying all traffic laws. Do not attempt any maneuvers that could jeopardize vehicle control. Failure to adhere to these precautions could lead to serious personal injury and vehicle damage.

Burnishing the brake pads and brake rotors is necessary to ensure that the braking surfaces are properly prepared after disc brake system service.

Perform this procedure whenever the disc brake rotors have been refinished or replaced, and/or whenever the disc brake pads have been replaced.

Select a smooth road with little or no traffic. Accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h (30 mph).

Use care to avoid overheating the brakes while performing this step.

Using moderate to firm pressure, apply the brakes to bring the vehicle to a stop. Do not allow the brakes to lock. Repeat until approximately 20 stops have been completed. Allow sufficient cooling periods between stops to properly burnish the brake pads and rotors.

- Thanks to North Central Region Service Engineers and Field Warranty Specialists

Gwampa

Mr. Jones:
I stand corrected and am blown away in one fell swoop! Going to copy this and present it to some folks I knowwho will appreciate it and your efforts. Nice thing is that it's just what I thought and you've confirmed it. Also, apologizes for sounding so gruff (am still smarting from Dex-cool episode). Thanks again for the info.

Bigwrench

Our Dealership is Installing NAPA rotors P#880403,special police car pads gm#19165980,and removing the brake backing plates and installing in their place brackets to hold the wheel speed sensor harness connector p#18060343 and 18060344 respectively under warranty.Even up to and beyond 60,000 miles.You might try that but it seems funny with GM going bankrupt that GM would allow use of aftermarket rotors under warranty or is GM saying their rotors are junk and Napas are better ?

ElEdwards

I have an '03 Impala that did the same thing.... severe pulsating at 10,000 miles. Dealer replaced the rotors... said they were warped and "Try not to brake when there's water on the road"...and I tried not to laugh.

Anyway.... I went through several more sets of rotors and pads until at about 150K miles, a friend a work suggested drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads. I paid for a 4-wheel set on eBay (about $160), did them myself, now have almost 293K on my dear Impala (that's more than 140K on this one set of pads and rotors!) and I'm lovin' life.

Just my 2-cents.