themcguire

I have another thread about this but stopped that 5 years ago while I worked on rebuild of the body.

Here is list of new stuff:

1. spark plugs and wires.
2. Ignition control module.
3. Fuel pump assembly. then just in case another new fuel pump
4. 2 new fuel filters
5. Fuel pump relay
6. battery
7. Starter

So I did the following - FYI they all result in NO START:

1. Tested voltage at relay. With key on I have 12v at power IN connection

2. When turning the key I have 12v for about 2 sec at the output side of the relay.

3. I tested the other end of the output from the relay at the fuel pump assembly and have 12v for 2 sec.

To me the means that the existing wire is OK!

4. When turning key and holding the relay in hand can feel the click and 2 sec later another click.

5. Connected 12v to red wire (relay bypass) at relay. I have 12v at the fuel pump assembly.

6. Connected new 14 gauge wire (temporary splice) from "relay out" to the fuel pump assembly. I have 12v at the fuel pump assembly.

7. I have tested the ground from fuel pump assembly to frame using continuity. Result is .000 on the meter.


Following resulted in fuel flow and start.

a. Connected power directly from battery to fuel pump assembly.


So if I am getting 12v to the fuel pump assembly via the existing wire and the temporary new wire why doesn't it run the fuel pump and start ?

Been reading and wondering if the cause is a lack of a engine start signal or an engine running signal? I have been unable to find what creates these signals.

Am I correct that while I have the initial 12v at the pump, that voltage stops after 2 sec and without the appropriate start or running signal voltage to the pump is cut off ?