chrisusmclaux

OK,
Hello everyone. I'm a virgin to this forum along with any other forum for that matter. I have a 2000 tahoe that has cost me close to $6k in the last 90 days. While trying to figure out a throttle problem derived from replacing the ECM, I was putting my dashboard back together while a friend was under the hood checking plugs and wiring while engine running. I accidentally bumped the gear shift lever and, well.... everyone knows what happens to the rear end when you drop into reverse at 3500 RPMs..... if not, keep reading. LOL. Lets just say, after making a noise that could be mistook for a gernade exploding in a 55 gallon drum, my differential went to the land of dead rear end differentials.
Simple question actually, what is the mechanical estimated time for removal and replacement of rear differential? Also, which is easier, more time/cost effective.. R/R of differential gears or the entire essembly?
2000 Chevy Tahoe
198,897 miles
5.3L v8
2wd
Any advice that can be given would be much appreciated... regardless of sarcasm. Thank you.

tymr287

Depending on your ability & if you are using air tools, probably 6-8 hrs. to replace the assy. Cost would depend upon if you want a reman axle( aftermarket or dealer) or going the route of getting one from a junkyard. The gears you would have to figure the same, aftermarket or dealer.

hicksvilleshick

if it were me, I'd find another rear and swap. for me re-building a diff would just be too much for me, I know I can swap a diff out in a afternoon. re-building a diff tho would be a bit more time consuming, for me anyhow.

SWHouston

I agree !

Rebuild on a Diff is NOT for the inexperienced, or even the moderately experienced. You'd need a Pro-Shop to do that, IF you wanted it to last.
I'd go with replacing the "whole enchilada" from a junk yard, and just do the ancillaries (brakes, lines, rotors) take the best from both.

If you choose the replacement route...
1) Check on the Brake Bleeding Procedure for your ABS system. Lots of Videos on UTube about that, and if you can't do that, a Pro-Shop will.
2) You might be able to pick up a Used Diff with one of the Limited Slip/Positrack/TrueTtrak units in it. Keep in mind if you do, those guys take special Oil, not regular Diff Lube.
3) You need to check your RPO Codes, for the Ratio of your OEM Diff. You have a Tag in your Glove Box, with a lot of letter/number sequences listed on it. Look for a code with an "F#" or "FX#" or "FY#", like that.

Once you find that, you can do a lookup on the following links.
Not all codes are listed on one main link, so here's a few you can try.

RPO Codes:
http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/gmcodes.html
http://www.rpocodes.com/
http://www.angelfire.com/ny2/96transam/rpocodes.html
http://www.gm-trucks.com/rpo-code-lookup/ (reverse lookup)

Good Luck

kevinkpk

I concur with replacing the whole thing 100%. There are ALOT of things with rebuilding these, gear mesh, bearings, shims, alignment ect. As stated if you have air tools with brake and general mechanical experience 6-8 hours. Since it is a 2wd you don't need to worry about matching the rear dif gear ratio to the front dif since you don't have one. You might also consider the gear ratio you had if thats what you want to go back with. If your gas mileage is poor, and you're not towing anything, consider a higher ratio for better mpg.