S-10 & Blazer 1982-2005
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4L60E 3/4 Clutch Stack

Old Sep 21, 2018 | 9:15 PM
  #1  
S10Driver77's Avatar
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Default 4L60E 3/4 Clutch Stack

New poster here! Got a 1994 S10 with the 4L60E; 230k miles, runs great, tranny first gear blown. I am rebuilding the trans mostly for the experience. I have found a lot of the inside is great condition, assumed it was rebuilt previously, I am however replacing the important things as is common for the $l60E. Please help below as I am losing my mind trying to figure out if my work will be for not when I bolt this back up and take it for a spin.

My Question: How do the 3/4 clutches get stacked? My directions are unclear at best, as they say to leave out the middle friction (2 steels are against one another) which is fine when clearances are checked (checked as .063 with the .060-.085 tolerance), but that leaves me with the last steel up against the Endplate; I do have an extra friction left over from the rebuild kit. Do I need to get a different thickness Endplate or Applyplate-? Also I took out 5 Frictions and 6 steels, same as what is going back in; I just can’t remember if the steels were up against the Endplate or the ApplyPlate originally since they got mixed up a bit. I would assume the springs would keep the steel from producing friction on the Endplate-(?)…(see bonus question below.)

3/4 Clutch Build:
ApplyPlate-F-S-F-S-F-SS-F-S-F-S-Endplate

Bonus question...Should I leave out the 5 load-release-spring-assemblies of the 3/4 clutch? I only ran across this recently, but thought i would ask. Advice I have read says yes, but I would like to know why. I am not putting a lot of power to this trans (2.2L) or driving all that fast.
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Old Sep 21, 2018 | 11:45 PM
  #2  
oilcanhenry's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2017
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From: USA
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Originally Posted by S10Driver77
New poster here! Got a 1994 S10 with the 4L60E; 230k miles, runs great, tranny first gear blown. I am rebuilding the trans mostly for the experience. I have found a lot of the inside is great condition, assumed it was rebuilt previously, I am however replacing the important things as is common for the $l60E. Please help below as I am losing my mind trying to figure out if my work will be for not when I bolt this back up and take it for a spin.

My Question: How do the 3/4 clutches get stacked? My directions are unclear at best, as they say to leave out the middle friction (2 steels are against one another) which is fine when clearances are checked (checked as .063 with the .060-.085 tolerance), but that leaves me with the last steel up against the Endplate; I do have an extra friction left over from the rebuild kit. Do I need to get a different thickness Endplate or Applyplate-? Also I took out 5 Frictions and 6 steels, same as what is going back in; I just can’t remember if the steels were up against the Endplate or the ApplyPlate originally since they got mixed up a bit. I would assume the springs would keep the steel from producing friction on the Endplate-(?)…(see bonus question below.)

3/4 Clutch Build:
ApplyPlate-F-S-F-S-F-SS-F-S-F-S-Endplate

Bonus question...Should I leave out the 5 load-release-spring-assemblies of the 3/4 clutch? I only ran across this recently, but thought i would ask. Advice I have read says yes, but I would like to know why. I am not putting a lot of power to this trans (2.2L) or driving all that fast.
Hopefully this man can help you out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7u0c50zWWis

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