Engine Removal 1992 Chevy S-10 Blazer
July 13th, 2019, 4:41 PM
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Engine Removal 1992 Chevy S-10 Blazer
1992 Chevy S-10 Blazer, 5 Speed, Manual Transmission, 4WD, 4.3 V-6 Engine Removal
Well after reading all of the horror stories on the different forums on how to pull the engine I started. It was a bear. There was no simple unbolt and pull method. The problem is on a 4WD, the rear part of the oil pan is about 8 inches deep is fitted tightly behind the Front 4WD differential. You have to lift the engine enough to clear the oil pan from the differential. Here is what I did to pull the engine.
As per all the manual state I did all the disconnections wiring, fuel, vacuum lines, bolts except the top trans to engine bolts. Next I unbolted the transmission from the cross member (2 bolts). I then unbolted the front bumper and the body from the frame except for the rear 2 bolts which I just loosened. This was not as bad as it sounds. There are 8 bolts holding the body to the frame; about an hour’s worth of labor with the help of an air impact wrench. Once the bolts were removed, I put a floor jack under the front of the body (under the radiator) and tilted the body up about 7 or 8 inches and put some 2x4 spacers between body & frame. I then attacked the top two upper engine to trans bolts (easy to get to now). There was enough room now between the bellhousing and transmission tunnel to lift the engine oil pan over the front differential. As I lifted the engine up, the transmission also lifted up a little. I then blocked the transmission to keep it from falling. Wiggling the engine it finely separated and came out.
Well after reading all of the horror stories on the different forums on how to pull the engine I started. It was a bear. There was no simple unbolt and pull method. The problem is on a 4WD, the rear part of the oil pan is about 8 inches deep is fitted tightly behind the Front 4WD differential. You have to lift the engine enough to clear the oil pan from the differential. Here is what I did to pull the engine.
As per all the manual state I did all the disconnections wiring, fuel, vacuum lines, bolts except the top trans to engine bolts. Next I unbolted the transmission from the cross member (2 bolts). I then unbolted the front bumper and the body from the frame except for the rear 2 bolts which I just loosened. This was not as bad as it sounds. There are 8 bolts holding the body to the frame; about an hour’s worth of labor with the help of an air impact wrench. Once the bolts were removed, I put a floor jack under the front of the body (under the radiator) and tilted the body up about 7 or 8 inches and put some 2x4 spacers between body & frame. I then attacked the top two upper engine to trans bolts (easy to get to now). There was enough room now between the bellhousing and transmission tunnel to lift the engine oil pan over the front differential. As I lifted the engine up, the transmission also lifted up a little. I then blocked the transmission to keep it from falling. Wiggling the engine it finely separated and came out.
