I have worked on 2 new 2013 vehicles with that sensor. Can't remember what dtc was set but Both times it needed a new sensor to fix the problem...and it did fix the problem.

 

I just sent an e-mail to T&S electronics that make a replicator, hopefully they wont snub me like the last replicator manufacturer did when I asked this. I appreciate you searching for me though.

 

the sensors on the new vehicles are 3 wire systems also. a powered reference, a ground and a signal wire. The new systems have full battery voltage on the reference wire...the old systems may be 5volts on the ref...what do you get?


usually, I jump the 5volts ref to the signal wire to see if it will force a dtc for short to voltage. if it does I know the wiring is ok. not knowing what your system uses for supply voltage I can't recommend that.

 

Its been a very long time since Ive had to diagnose a sensor. But Pin A got 4 volts, pin B was a lil over 11 volts, and the last pin is common.

 

is the sensor disconnected when you testing?

 

I found a diagram and a diagnostic but the dtc was p0178.


the pink wire should have battery voltage. the purple wire is the low ref ground. the signal wire is the white wire

 

disconnect the sensor, key on...install a test light (not a voltmeter...they want a load in the circuit) between the pink and purple wire. the test light should illuminate. with a voltmeter check the white wire to grd...it should have close to 5volts. if this is the results you get, you need a sensor.


I think you can safely replace the sensor cause I think you battery supply is dying out hence the 11volts on the power wire. if you had a fully charged battery the supply voltage would be 12.6 and the other voltage probably would be closer to 5volts.

 

Ill check on it tomorrow morning when I have some light, lol. That could be it too, I checked the battery and thats reading 12.1 volts(havent ran it in two weeks because I didnt want O2 sensors to start failing due to engine running crapily). But I could have also got some resistance in the main battery wires as well. Ill check it with the test light, and if that checks out ill order the part. Thanks again man.

 

I checked it out like you said, (this time with a better ground. The light lit, and I'm getting a full 5V now. So now I can get the replicator with confidence that its the sensors fault and not the wiring harness. Thanks for all the help man.

 

so the replicator just subs in a fixed value so the truck thinks regular fuel is being used?