RICH idle sggestions
#11
This truck has been in the family for at least 5 years and it has had a leak in the exhaust probably the entire time and I just recently moved to Illinois and got a ticket for the loud exhaust so I fixed it and it is still running rich (it has been running rich since we bought it). We only paid like 500 for it and we have put maybe 6,xxx miles on it so I’m not really wanting to spend more than it’s worth you know. It has 240,xxx miles as is.
This is the part number for the injectors AutoZone sells for my truck 800-1801N thjey are about 80 bucks. I just replaced the plugs, fuel filter, tranny filter, and fluids less than a month ago in some hope it would help the RICH problem but nothing as I also mentioned above I also cleaned the throttle body petty good I took it off cleaned it with some PB penetrator took the IAC out and cleaned the passage ways out replaced the base gasket and it’s not leaking. The RICH problem has been around for a long time and it’s now really bothering me this truck needs to last and I’m only getting about 10mpg at the moment (damn 4.3 gas hog).
I noticed last night while driving the “check gauges” light didn’t come on until I got home and put it into park then it flashed on. My fuel gage doesn’t work (that or I always have a full tank) and my spedo is off by a few miles so I’m not sure if that’s what’s causing the light or if it’s a sensor. Also since it only came up when I put the car in park maybe the temp sensor in the head is indeed bad but I have no idea.
If I decided to replace injectors 2 temp sensors and a O2 sensor and all the antifreeze ill have to replace I’m running up a pretty high bill and I don’t want to do that I came here in hopes that you all might be able to help me out some.
This is the part number for the injectors AutoZone sells for my truck 800-1801N thjey are about 80 bucks. I just replaced the plugs, fuel filter, tranny filter, and fluids less than a month ago in some hope it would help the RICH problem but nothing as I also mentioned above I also cleaned the throttle body petty good I took it off cleaned it with some PB penetrator took the IAC out and cleaned the passage ways out replaced the base gasket and it’s not leaking. The RICH problem has been around for a long time and it’s now really bothering me this truck needs to last and I’m only getting about 10mpg at the moment (damn 4.3 gas hog).
I noticed last night while driving the “check gauges” light didn’t come on until I got home and put it into park then it flashed on. My fuel gage doesn’t work (that or I always have a full tank) and my spedo is off by a few miles so I’m not sure if that’s what’s causing the light or if it’s a sensor. Also since it only came up when I put the car in park maybe the temp sensor in the head is indeed bad but I have no idea.
If I decided to replace injectors 2 temp sensors and a O2 sensor and all the antifreeze ill have to replace I’m running up a pretty high bill and I don’t want to do that I came here in hopes that you all might be able to help me out some.
#12
we are trying to help you, but reality is, you may have a few parts that need replaced to solve your problems. some of these parts may or may not be budget friendly. it happens. if you have bad injector unit, no amount of advice or help is gonna fix it. only solution is replace.
#13
Oh don’t get me wrong I know what you mean but I also would of never guessed the temp sensors so yall gave me a whole new Verizon to look at and now I need to do some more research and study the truck a bit more to see if I can find any other symptoms but I think I may start with new temp sensors at first.
I’m not saying yall haven’t helped me because you have now its either buy one part see if it works if not move up the price ladder for the next and keep going until either I fixed the problem or gave up. I think I should invest in a nice computer scanner lol.
I’m not saying yall haven’t helped me because you have now its either buy one part see if it works if not move up the price ladder for the next and keep going until either I fixed the problem or gave up. I think I should invest in a nice computer scanner lol.
#14
on the injector i think you may have looked up the wrong part cuz if your tuck is a 95 chevy s10/blazer 4.3l then it has a cpi motor and heres the link to your injector http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...&parentId=49-0 injectors wont really fix the running rich that was to help with the bog down up hills etc. but i would start with the o2 sensors and temp sensors first and possibly get your exaust leak fixed because if your leak is coming from exaust manifold --> cat anywhere in there it may smell like gas a bit also check your timing too cuz if its timeing is too slow then it will run rich and pretty much run like crap
also are you getting any smoke outta the exaust
also are you getting any smoke outta the exaust
#15
its a trial and error kinda thing just gotta find what works and since none of us are there to see how its running its kinda hard to tell what it is you have explained good enough for us to provide close to accurate info but its just hard to tell since were not there
#17
2000sdime, those are the same injectors I mentioned in an earlier post and yes the exhaust leak has been fixed I didn’t want to have to fix it and pay for a ticket as well. The timing is on and the truck runs fine after it gets out of lower gears and lower RPM’s.
I mention being on a budget because I have a baby on the way and would rather spend my money on it than a $500 truck I drive to work and back since I also have a 99 Malibu I drive on a regular basis.
I am possibly going to replace the temp sensors this weekend see if they help do much ill change the one in the thermostat first then the coolant sensor.
If I get nothing then we will see where I go from there. I just came here to get some secondary information. I know quite a bit about vehicles but would always like a second + opinion because I tend to forget some of the minor parts like temp sensors lol.
Thanks for all the help I will update with my findings before to long.
I mention being on a budget because I have a baby on the way and would rather spend my money on it than a $500 truck I drive to work and back since I also have a 99 Malibu I drive on a regular basis.
I am possibly going to replace the temp sensors this weekend see if they help do much ill change the one in the thermostat first then the coolant sensor.
If I get nothing then we will see where I go from there. I just came here to get some secondary information. I know quite a bit about vehicles but would always like a second + opinion because I tend to forget some of the minor parts like temp sensors lol.
Thanks for all the help I will update with my findings before to long.
#19
So I was really hoping to come in here and say hey guys problem solved but I can’t. I just replaced both temp switch and temp coolant sensor and the truck was running fine for a few minutes I hoped in cranked it up noticed it was idling at about 950 RPM instead of 650 RPM’s which seemed more reasonable. Took it for a small drive I went about one mile and it was running really good then as I came to a stoplight it went back to its old self. As soon as I hit the brakes the check gauges light went on RPM’s went back to 650 and as I hit the gas the check gauge light went off and it practically wouldn’t go same as before.
I started thinking maybe the wires are bad so i figured when I got home I would pop the hood leave it running and wiggle the wires to see if I can tell a difference in idle. As soon as I got out and put my head under the hood I heard an eary sound the sound of electrical pops like something is being arched and I tried to pinpoint the sound which didn’t take too long just found the spark.
Some where between the temp switch and the oil filter is a wire that is sparking. I noticed there was one other plug right below the temp switch I’m not sure what it is it has been raining for some time now and I’m not trying to find it right now guess I won’t be driving the truck until I can fix it.
Any ideas as to which wire this is? I tried to look with a flashlight and I was going to try and grab it but ill wait until I can disconnect the battery.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I started thinking maybe the wires are bad so i figured when I got home I would pop the hood leave it running and wiggle the wires to see if I can tell a difference in idle. As soon as I got out and put my head under the hood I heard an eary sound the sound of electrical pops like something is being arched and I tried to pinpoint the sound which didn’t take too long just found the spark.
Some where between the temp switch and the oil filter is a wire that is sparking. I noticed there was one other plug right below the temp switch I’m not sure what it is it has been raining for some time now and I’m not trying to find it right now guess I won’t be driving the truck until I can fix it.
Any ideas as to which wire this is? I tried to look with a flashlight and I was going to try and grab it but ill wait until I can disconnect the battery.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
#20
Well found out that arc was a plug wire that popped off humm that salves the rough idle and a lot of the RICH problems. But it was running rich beforehand. I took it for a short ride and it worked great but when I got home the RPM’s decreased as well and the gauge light came back on later ill take it for another drive to see what exactly was going on.
Correct me if wrong but the check gauge light comes on when triggered by one of 3 things.
Running on E
Low oil pressure
Engine temp
Since I replaced the tamp sensors and the fuel gauge is stick on “F” I think I might replace the oil pressure sending unit soon as well as new cap, rotor, and wires. Would a low oil pressure cause the rougher idle as well? I noticed when I put it into park my OP went into the low red zone and I never see it go much higher than 20 psi which doesn’t sound right what should the oil pressure be around?
Correct me if wrong but the check gauge light comes on when triggered by one of 3 things.
Running on E
Low oil pressure
Engine temp
Since I replaced the tamp sensors and the fuel gauge is stick on “F” I think I might replace the oil pressure sending unit soon as well as new cap, rotor, and wires. Would a low oil pressure cause the rougher idle as well? I noticed when I put it into park my OP went into the low red zone and I never see it go much higher than 20 psi which doesn’t sound right what should the oil pressure be around?