Starting issues.
Hey guys I have a bit of a problem.
So the other day I took my amp and sub out and hooked my radio up properly. When I say properly I mean that the power wires were connected the hazard light fuse and the ground was grounded to a geed ground with a bit thicker wire.
So I hooked everything up to the wire harness started her up worked fine. I went to work and when I got off jumped in the truck turned the lights on and for some reason the gauge lights weren’t on but my anti lock brake light and check engine light were on (they are both usually on the anti lock not sure whets wrong there brakes are decent and fluid is full no problems braking and the check engine is because I need to replace a oil pressure sending unit.) I got home figured ill look at my fuses tomorrow.
Tomorrow came and as it was time to go to work I forgot to check my fuses jumped in the truck figured ill fix it on brake but the truck wouldn’t start so jumped in the G/F’s car and while at work a coworker told me that last night my brake lights worked but my rear driving lights were out so the next day I checked my fuses had to replace 2 of them one of which was the rear lights fuse and the other just said PWR the only PWR fuse that was in the fuse block I also put the old ground back on the radio to see if that would make a difference. I then took the battery to Wal Mart they said it was “overcharged” it was pulling 1,500+ amps for such a small battery( I think its rated at about 750 amps) so I bought a new battery put it in and it worked fine my volt gauge was reading 14 volts while running and 12 while only running the accessories so I figured all was good. I checked to see my dash lights and rear lights came on and all was good that is until 2 hours later when I had to leave for work the truck was dead again but this time I got no response no lights no nothing.
I just took the alt to get tested and it passed also tested the battery and it passed. I am leaning towards a short or maybe a bad ignition switch. My key needs to e in the cylinder to start the truck but I can pull the key out and I was also thinking maybe the key and cylinder are bad.
Any ideas would be great I am about to try and take it to a town about 30 miles away to my G/F’s uncles shop and have him give it a twice over to see if he can figure out what’s wrong.
The truck is a ’95 S-10 4.3 TBI
So the other day I took my amp and sub out and hooked my radio up properly. When I say properly I mean that the power wires were connected the hazard light fuse and the ground was grounded to a geed ground with a bit thicker wire.
So I hooked everything up to the wire harness started her up worked fine. I went to work and when I got off jumped in the truck turned the lights on and for some reason the gauge lights weren’t on but my anti lock brake light and check engine light were on (they are both usually on the anti lock not sure whets wrong there brakes are decent and fluid is full no problems braking and the check engine is because I need to replace a oil pressure sending unit.) I got home figured ill look at my fuses tomorrow.
Tomorrow came and as it was time to go to work I forgot to check my fuses jumped in the truck figured ill fix it on brake but the truck wouldn’t start so jumped in the G/F’s car and while at work a coworker told me that last night my brake lights worked but my rear driving lights were out so the next day I checked my fuses had to replace 2 of them one of which was the rear lights fuse and the other just said PWR the only PWR fuse that was in the fuse block I also put the old ground back on the radio to see if that would make a difference. I then took the battery to Wal Mart they said it was “overcharged” it was pulling 1,500+ amps for such a small battery( I think its rated at about 750 amps) so I bought a new battery put it in and it worked fine my volt gauge was reading 14 volts while running and 12 while only running the accessories so I figured all was good. I checked to see my dash lights and rear lights came on and all was good that is until 2 hours later when I had to leave for work the truck was dead again but this time I got no response no lights no nothing.
I just took the alt to get tested and it passed also tested the battery and it passed. I am leaning towards a short or maybe a bad ignition switch. My key needs to e in the cylinder to start the truck but I can pull the key out and I was also thinking maybe the key and cylinder are bad.
Any ideas would be great I am about to try and take it to a town about 30 miles away to my G/F’s uncles shop and have him give it a twice over to see if he can figure out what’s wrong.
The truck is a ’95 S-10 4.3 TBI
Just put the battery and alternator back in and fired up the truck and not the volt gauge is only reading 12 both on and in accessory mode that point me back to the alternator I’m so confused.
When I had the battery out i clamped a multi meter to the terminal bolts put it on x10 and with a key out I get the same exact reading as if the key was in and turned over shouldn’t it be lower with the ignition off?
When I had the battery out i clamped a multi meter to the terminal bolts put it on x10 and with a key out I get the same exact reading as if the key was in and turned over shouldn’t it be lower with the ignition off?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
UKChevyJules
Silverado, Sierra & Fullsize Pick-ups
1
Dec 6, 2006 2:26 PM




