wont crank over when hot
#21
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While not starting check volts at solenoid. If either is not very close to battery volts you have poor connection or faulty switch (relay, neutral safety, splice, etc). I suspect something in start side of ign switch circuit. You can volt test at various places along circuit if you do not proper voltages at starter terminal. Any place between battery and starter is suspect (bulkhead connector, ign switch, neutral switch, etc).
#22
Last time i had a no start, i checked s terminal on starter with my son turning the key. No volts, so im sure its the ignition switch, which is on order, delco unit!
When i fit it, ill post back with the outcome, may help someone in the future, seems most people dont follow up with a final post!
When i fit it, ill post back with the outcome, may help someone in the future, seems most people dont follow up with a final post!
#23
Problem was the ignition switch all along. Took apart the old one and found the contacts quite badly pitted.
Why did GM install this on so many cars when it is so obviously under engineered.
Well done the bean counters. $$$$$$
Why did GM install this on so many cars when it is so obviously under engineered.
Well done the bean counters. $$$$$$
#24
Hi There, hate to reopen an old post, but have the same problem. Hoping for experienced advice. My 93 S10 Blazer runs excellent otherwise. Original owner. I've had this not-cranking when warm problem every time a battery gets a couple years old. Seems to eat batteries. Has a new starter/solenoid last year. I installed a starter heat shield years ago, but doesn't seem to make a difference. Stll hard to start every couple years. New 105 amps alternator 2018. Charging was good before and after. All great connections -- tested for voltage at every point I could find. On a hunch, I replaced the large, main battery cables. no noticeable change in starting or voltage at the far end. But I haven't tested voltage at the battery and the solenoid when it's hot and wont start. Hard to get in there, but I'lll try that next. If that fails, then another new, unavoidable battery. Seems thats the only thing that works, even though for a short time. But, I did replace the ignition switch also last year, yet that didn't help in my case when the 2 years came up this year. I'm wondering why an ignition switch would make a difference if the engine was warmed up or not anyhow? The contacts are in the passenger compartment. The old contacts looked fine. What a bear to change though!
Thank You in advance for any advice.
Jim
Thank You in advance for any advice.
Jim
#25
To hot to start
ROUND TWO !
After installing a brand new starter and heat shield i m back to square one.
No cranking over after the truck has started from cold, then turned off.
This can only be the ignition switch. ?????
When the truck is started from cold, contacts in the switch pass the current through because of the low resistance. After one or two starts heat builds up ( high current generates the heat) gives a high resistance
and voila, no start.
Anyone agree, Steve?
After installing a brand new starter and heat shield i m back to square one.
No cranking over after the truck has started from cold, then turned off.
This can only be the ignition switch. ?????
When the truck is started from cold, contacts in the switch pass the current through because of the low resistance. After one or two starts heat builds up ( high current generates the heat) gives a high resistance
and voila, no start.
Anyone agree, Steve?
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usmarine0905
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September 16th, 2010 8:41 PM