Here is a little How to I found while searching. Hope this helps those of you who may need to replace your idler arm.


First off, all of this information is based off of a 2002 Blazer Xtremewith 56,xxx miles. I have had problems with the outside edge of my tires feathering, and shaking on the freeway despite being in alignment. I am replacing the stock Idler arm with Moog K6187T $37.05 at O’Reillys.
There are 3 bolts total that you will have to deal with, all of mine were 18mm. There are two on the frame and one holding the idler arm to the drop linkage. The two on the frame are easy, the third not so much.
I started by loosening the two bolts connected to the frame. You will need someone, or something, to hold a socket wrench on the other side or the bolt will just spin with the nut.


Now the third bolt is the real SOB. To make this go as easily as possible I managed to break the nut loose from the bolt.

Then in order to separate the Idler from the linkage, I used a pitman puller that I got on loan from AutoZone ($20 deposit that you get when you return it). The pitman puller is a little too large, so you will need someone to hold it into place. It will bust loose, and then you are able to remove the stock Idler Arm.
Here are some pics comparing the new Idler from the stock one.

Before you put the new one on, it comes with a new grease fitting that will need to be put on. I used a socket to make sure it was tight.
OK, I reinstalled the two nuts onto the frame. When you’re putting this back together, please be careful, you can knock those bolts down into the frame.

Then, start the third nut that holds the linkage and the idler arm together. At a certain point the bolt will spin with the nut. How I remedied the situation was using a C clamp. I put it on the linkage and the Idler.

With the C clamp still on, tighten the nut and it is good to go! Now if the C clamp slips off don’t worry because it slipped on me several times. I got the nut tightened about ľ of the way with the clamp falling off. Then I just kept repeating this process till it was tight. Here is the end result!

 

I just had that done @ the dealer. 95.00 hr for labor. Part alone was 108+. Everything was 215.00. Then they tell me that I need Upper/Lower Ball Joints. Dealer wanted 1 grand to do job.

 

Thanks so much for this guide. Now I can replace my car's idler arm properly. I actually screwed up the last time.