04 C\K - Temperature Valve Actuator Replacement
July 21st, 2010, 12:18 PM
#31
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i got my hole dash taken apart, because the recircl blend door doesnt open until you push on it by hand. and only sometimes..other times it doesnt move at all when pushing it..ive taken the actuator apart and readjusted it..theres only 2 ways it can go in..one way, the door moves only one way,,the otherway, the door moves the otherway...it may open and close once, but thats it...ive changed the actuator with the bottom one and it does the same thing..i noticed that the passenger side actuator moves a littlebit at a time, not smoothly ..beings the recircl door is heavy, does that mean the motor is going out..or whatelse could it be...i appreciate your help as soon as possible..i need my truck..thanks
Hey rkfguard, how long did it take to take the dash to where you could access the actuator? Also did you need a steering wheel puller to get the steering column out? Just wondering how much time I need to set aside if I'm going to replace my right pass actuator.
August 15th, 2010, 5:34 PM
#32
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This is in response to a PM I received, but I am posting it here for others to see
Sounds like the actuator has been stripped. It is pretty easy to change, and calibrating it does not need a scan tool. I'll post instructions with pics
Temperature Valve Actuator Replacement - Left Side
Removal Procedure
Notice: In order to avoid actuator damage, DO NOT apply power to the actuator when it is not installed in the HVAC module.
Sounds like the actuator has been stripped. It is pretty easy to change, and calibrating it does not need a scan tool. I'll post instructions with pics
Temperature Valve Actuator Replacement - Left Side
Removal Procedure
Notice: In order to avoid actuator damage, DO NOT apply power to the actuator when it is not installed in the HVAC module.
- Remove the I/P insulator panel.
- Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the left air temperature actuator (2).
- Remove the screws from the left air temperature actuator (2).
- Remove the left air temperature actuator (2) from the HVAC module assembly (3).
- Install the left air temperature actuator (2) to the HVAC module assembly (3).
- Install the screws to the left air temperature actuator (2). Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
- Install the electrical connector (1) to the left air temperature actuator (2).
- Install the I/P insulator panel.
- Reprogram the left air temperature actuator.
First, it seems that you indeed have a good handle on this issue:
I have had the issue discussed in this forum with the 2004 Tahoe driver side air intermittently blowing hot (extremely hot) air while the A/C is on. A quick turn off of the engine and restart clears the issue (for an intermittent period of time (maybe days or hours)). The front blower finally quit working also, so I took it to a highly respected shop in the area (not a dealer). They replaced the blower motor, the blower module, and the driver side temperature actuator. Also recharged the system. Total charge around $1300. Everything worked fine for the first day, then suddenly, the driver side started blowing hot air again (same symptom and solution: turn off engine and restart). I took it back to the shop where they "reprogrammed it". 2 days later...you guessed it...same thing again. I am obviously very frustrated. Any ideas?
August 21st, 2010, 4:08 PM
#33
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There IS no solution to this problem. I've been battling this and investigating this for two years - since I made the mistake of changing my battery. The disconnection of power causes the A/C's computer to recognize a fault and it will default to the full hot passenger side actuator (gives heat to the drivers side). You can replace every single component of the a/c system and you will still have this problem. The only way to fix this problem is to remove the actuator on the passenger side and mechanically turn and hold the actuator door closed. It's tends to go to the open position so you will need to use some method involving zip ties etc.....
Don't be talked into wasting time and money trying to fix this problem by replacing components. All dealerships are incapable of fixing this as are their mechanics - despite their good intentions and belief in their ability. This is a computer problem, not a mechanical one. You won't ever hear of a permanent solution to this issue anywhere. If so please let's hear it.
Just my .02.
Don't be talked into wasting time and money trying to fix this problem by replacing components. All dealerships are incapable of fixing this as are their mechanics - despite their good intentions and belief in their ability. This is a computer problem, not a mechanical one. You won't ever hear of a permanent solution to this issue anywhere. If so please let's hear it.
Just my .02.
October 8th, 2010, 4:06 PM
#35
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I am having the opposite problem of everyone else. My drivers side is blowing only cold air. Is the accuator my problem also? I tried to just recalibrate it and it didnt work. Do I have to replace the left accuator?
November 26th, 2010, 10:12 AM
#36
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I have a 04 suburban. i have heat in the rear, but none in the front it just blows cold air, I have heard the strang clicking before. what could it be ?? I do have dual air controls. but on both sides in the front I get nothing but cold air. any no ever had the problem before???
August 5th, 2011, 7:16 PM
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I have the same issue as above with my 2005 suburban z71 with the passenger side ac actuator. Does anyone have Shawn's complete instructions to replace the actuator? It is stuck on hot air and it's 110 degrees in Dallas, not a good combination.
November 3rd, 2011, 6:01 PM
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There IS no solution to this problem. I've been battling this and investigating this for two years - since I made the mistake of changing my battery. The disconnection of power causes the A/C's computer to recognize a fault and it will default to the full hot passenger side actuator (gives heat to the drivers side). You can replace every single component of the a/c system and you will still have this problem. The only way to fix this problem is to remove the actuator on the passenger side and mechanically turn and hold the actuator door closed. It's tends to go to the open position so you will need to use some method involving zip ties etc.....
Don't be talked into wasting time and money trying to fix this problem by replacing components. All dealerships are incapable of fixing this as are their mechanics - despite their good intentions and belief in their ability. This is a computer problem, not a mechanical one. You won't ever hear of a permanent solution to this issue anywhere. If so please let's hear it.
Just my .02.
Don't be talked into wasting time and money trying to fix this problem by replacing components. All dealerships are incapable of fixing this as are their mechanics - despite their good intentions and belief in their ability. This is a computer problem, not a mechanical one. You won't ever hear of a permanent solution to this issue anywhere. If so please let's hear it.
Just my .02.
Are you saying that after replacing the left side actuator that you STILL had to zip tie the door closed/open?
I was hoping to replace driver side (left side) acutator (located on the passenger side of truck) and that would fix it.
Confused by your zip tie comment.
Respectrully,
pmcsurf1