4L60E tranny issues
July 11th, 2012, 8:11 PM
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4L60E tranny issues
ok this trans is starting to **** me off. i blew the trans out and started to rebuild. almost had it back together and as i was putthing the input drum in the putput shaft fell out. i think i had it in right the snap ring on, it took about 3 days to do it. is there a trick to getting it in right? and also what the best way to get the 2-4 band clutch back in
July 12th, 2012, 5:41 AM
#2
Yeah,
That's kind of a stinker if you've never done it before.
Take everything back out of the case. Stand the transmission on 'er tail. If you don't have an assembly jig, use an empty 30-gallon oil barrel or some such thing.
When you go back together, make darned sure all the thrust washers and bearings are orentated correctly as that snap ring groove "just clears" the carrier. Use assembly jel to hold "tanged" washers in place if need be.
**Make darned sure that those little bearings are installed right! They'll go in either way but only one way is correct. Upside down just doesn't get it!**
There is a special tool to hold that output shaft in place, but it can be done with a third arm or by holding yer mouth just right.
However, you'll need a pair of hook-nosed snap ring pliers to get that snap ring seated in the groove. (I'll load ya a couple of pictures, one of a 4L60.)
After you install the shaft seal, put the the reverse input drum on the input assembly and with the transmission still upright, set the basket/drum down into the transmission. Wiggle the darned thing until it is metal to metal if you lift it just a bit. This insures that all the plates inside that basket and drum are aligned.
Pinch the retaining finger on the band down against itself with a pair of pliers. If the valve body is already on the case, you'll have to **** the whole input assembly towards the far side of the case to get it hooked on the anchor pin. After it is in place, take a large screwdriver and bend that retaining finger back out again.
Bring/tighten the oil pump down slowly all the while checking for endplay at the input shaft. When everything is all tightened down you should end up with 'about' 2 or 3/64" of end play at that shaft. If there is no end play, there is a clutch plate out of alignment.
Allan
That's kind of a stinker if you've never done it before.
Take everything back out of the case. Stand the transmission on 'er tail. If you don't have an assembly jig, use an empty 30-gallon oil barrel or some such thing.
When you go back together, make darned sure all the thrust washers and bearings are orentated correctly as that snap ring groove "just clears" the carrier. Use assembly jel to hold "tanged" washers in place if need be.
**Make darned sure that those little bearings are installed right! They'll go in either way but only one way is correct. Upside down just doesn't get it!**
There is a special tool to hold that output shaft in place, but it can be done with a third arm or by holding yer mouth just right.
However, you'll need a pair of hook-nosed snap ring pliers to get that snap ring seated in the groove. (I'll load ya a couple of pictures, one of a 4L60.)After you install the shaft seal, put the the reverse input drum on the input assembly and with the transmission still upright, set the basket/drum down into the transmission. Wiggle the darned thing until it is metal to metal if you lift it just a bit. This insures that all the plates inside that basket and drum are aligned.
Pinch the retaining finger on the band down against itself with a pair of pliers. If the valve body is already on the case, you'll have to **** the whole input assembly towards the far side of the case to get it hooked on the anchor pin. After it is in place, take a large screwdriver and bend that retaining finger back out again.
Bring/tighten the oil pump down slowly all the while checking for endplay at the input shaft. When everything is all tightened down you should end up with 'about' 2 or 3/64" of end play at that shaft. If there is no end play, there is a clutch plate out of alignment.
Allan
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