tom5170

The sticker is on top of the radiator. I already had the truck running when I put the belt on and it didnt squeek, but then it started squeeking again then stopped. The idling went from sounding good when revving, to hesitating when revving, but I am guessing this is because the belt isnt tensioned right?

maxxman04

could very well be. get the belt and tensioner on correctly, then go from there. keep me (us) posted.

tom5170

Alright well thanks alot! I appreciate it! I will let you guys know tomorrow!

tom5170

Okay so I finally got the belt tensioned.

I took the radiator cap off, added some coolant into the radiator, and then poured some into the resevoir. Started the truck with the radiator cap off and letted it warm up. I threw the heater on high and waited for it to warm up. The air was still blowing cold with the engine warmed up. As the engine was getting hotter, coolant started bubbling and coming out of the radiator where the cap goes and then the needle went back down and the bubbling stopped. I kept the truck idling for a bit and then shut it down and letted it cool down. Then about 30 minutes later I repeated the same step to burp it. I noticed that the heater felt like it was blowing some warm air but then it felt like the air went cool again. I had my neighbor come over and he said it sounds like the thermostat isnt opening. I went to napa and bought a new thermostat but I cant get the bolts off to take the old one off and put the new one on!!

tom5170

Does this sound like a thermostat issue? Before I took the old leaking radiator hose off, the heater was blowing warm air! Is there maybe an air pocket trapped from I took the hose off or is it the thermostat?

I remember when I first spotted the leak and I poured coolant into the resevoir, the needle would bounce back and fourth and you could hear something kick in ... but it sounded quite rapid... like a little bit too much of the kicking in. Now there is nothing that kicks on. Itll only stay cool if I take the radiator cap off.

maxxman04

boil some water in a pan. put cap back on radiator. start truck and let it run till it warms to normal temp, around 200. have the water boiling up to this point so it good and hot. as temp on truck approaches 200, pour the hot water over thermostat housing, not too fast. keep pouring until water is gone out of pan, or until t-stat opens. if you can, have someone keep an eye on gauge in truck. once t-stat opens once, it'll be good to go. no heat because water in heater core is not circulating, mixing with warm water. get the t-stat to open once, you should be fine.

tom5170

So you're saying to pour the boiling water over the upper radiator hose where it connects to the engine? What will this do?

nauticstar87

It should force the t-stat to open.

tom5170

I think I fixed the problem. I called my friend that is a mechanic and he told me that when I put on the new radiator hose, and all the coolant dumped out... and I only refilled it with a gallon of coolant. He told me to get another gallon, open the radiator cap, and pour it in the radiator. After I filled it to the top, I ran the truck for about 2 minutes and it started blowing hot air out of the heater. The temp needle also stayed regulated and didnt overheat. I went up and down the road a bit and the needle still stayed regulated. I let the truck idle for another 30 minutes and the needle stayed in the middle. I think it was because there wasnt enough coolant. Does this sound like it to you guys? I dont think I will need to put the new thermostat in.

Before I would run the truck for 5 minutes and the needle would be hitting red. Now it stays in the middle. I'll have to keep an eye to make sure there isnt any coolant leaks besides the coolant I spotted dripping from under the old lower radiator hose. The new coolant I put in the resevoir over 2 hours ago is still in there and hasnt dropped.

nauticstar87

I think your good. Just keep an eye out on that hose.