I have an 04 4wd Silverado that I have to replace the drivers side cv half shaft. Just wondering if this is a tricky job? Any special tools required for removal or install?
Instruction posted anywhere on the net?

 

I have a 2001 4x4 that I replaced the ball joints on last year. I dont remember it taking much to pull the half axels. I had to by a 35mm socket (about $10 from local auto parts dealer) to get the nuts off the hubs. I followed the Haynes Repair manual.

If I remember correctly, there are 6 bolts on aflange at the inside end of the half axle. You have to pull those out and break thatflange loose. I believe there is a recessed ring in there that will give you a little resistance sliding the flanges apart. Once you get outside hub nut off and the inside flange separated you should be able to tap the axle a little with a hammer and the axle slide out. If it is real corroded you may need a 2 or 3jaw puller to get it to free the splines in the hub.

If you want to torque it down to spec when you put it back together you will need a torque wrench that goes up to 175 ft/lbs. I think it was 175. I had a cheap 1/2" drive torque wrench that only went to 150. I over cranked it to about where 175 would be and torqued it down. I don't trust the torque wrench is in calibration now but I only paid $15-$20 for it so it wascheap to replace.

You will need a new lock nut for the hub. They are only supposed to be used once. You can pick them up cheap on Rockauto.com. The website saved me about 50% when I replaced all my ball joints.

If you have to tap on the half axle to get it free you will need to leave that nut sticking off the end so you don't damage the half axle.

I didnt change my CV joints. I would either trade your old half axle out for a new/rebuilt one or take it somewhere that knows what they are doing. I have picked up bad half axles before for a car. My opinion is that it's not worth the risk doing it yourself and I'm all for the Do It Yourself idea.

Rockauto.com has the half axels for between $56 and $191. It depends on which one you get and if you send in a core or not.

Hope this helps.

 

it is a very simple job if you have mechanical skills, if you follow the hanyes you will have no problem... more or less if you can change your brakes then you should be able to pull the half shaft. but hint... dont take the brakes off until you get the 6 bolts undone on the flange.. have someone get in and hold the brake and let you break the bolts. if you dont you will be using a crow bar between the hub bolts risking flatting the threads on the hub. you might have to pop one of the ball joints so you can get enough room to slide the axle all the way out.. or maybe drop the skid plate to get a little extra play room..but just look at it like a puzzle and see whats holding it in and make it work.

 

I think when I did the ball joints on my truck that I pulled the half axle before I popped the ball joints loose. You may have to turn your tires to get it free. I forgot about leaving the brakes in so you can get the flange bolts loose.

In my first reply I mentioned taking the truck in to have someone else do it. I was referring to having the CV joints rebuilt. I would pull the half axle myself. It's not that hard.

 

1. go to library and copy page from chilton on the job
2. go to schucks or any major parts store and rent "front end socket set". it's free or much cheaper than buying 36mm socket.
3. you'll have to have long flat end prybar to wedge between the two studs to prevent hub from turning; long enough to hit against the pavement with vehicle on a jackstand. JACKSTAND THE CAR, DON'T DO IT OFF A HYDRAULICK JACK!!!!!
4. you'll have to have 1/2 inch wrench and suitable cheatpipe to go on it. i replaced several driveshafts and hub bearings, and a Silvie hub this spring, and i broke 2 of those so far, so much effort it takes. on one or two, i had to jump on the cheatpipe, so tight it can be. 275 lbs. make sure you have cheatpipe on "pull up with your back" side, not on "push down with your hands" one. not enough strength. if you have access to a high torque air tool, that does the job the best.
5. you'll need quick wrench or penetrating catalist, and a lot of it, to spray on the driveshaft nut.
i tried "buddy holds foot on the brakes pedal" thing and i can still turn the rotor, as without power brakes, you don't get much braking power. so far, prybar worked miracles. studs ar easy to replace in case life happens.
6. as soon as you break driveshaft nut loose, you'll need to disconnect tierod end, to be able to swing hub all the way to the side to clear driveshaft. you can use fancy tierod end removing tools, but a good wack on the tierod end knuckle breaks it loose nice and easy every time. wack it, don't peck it! BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO STRETCH THE U-JOINT ASSEMBLY, AS BEARING MAY COME OUT OF ENGAGEMENT!!! done this, no fun at all. you can bend u-joint a lot, but be VERY careful stratching it. i used to tie the joint together with electrician tape to prevent this.

 

I'd just get a whole new CV axle setup for that side. It's more worth it to do the whole CV axle than just a half shaft. If you have a impact wrench than you can pull the 6 CV axle nuts off while you got the brakes and everything to get the CV axle out of the truck. I think, I can't remember for sure, but on the 1/2 tons you can pull the CV axle out without pulling off the lower control arm. If it's a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton I think you gotta put the lower control arm off to get the axle out, but I can't remember for sure. I'll look on all data for the procedure and post again.

 

Yeah, according to All Data you have to remove the shock absorber and control arm to gain enough clearance get the axle out. I remember when I redid a front differential assembly on a 1 ton I had to remove the shocks and arms to get the axles off so I could redo the front differential assembly.