tcup1851

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 with 116,000 miles. When I put the truck in gear the CID reads that the Left Rear Door Is Ajar. I cannot set the alarm, the interior lights stay on while I'm driving and the doors will not lock. This past weekend I took the door apart. When I unplugged the wires from the latch and put the truck in gear it still said that the door was ajar. I took the latch out and tried it and it said the same thing. I called all the auto parts stores in my area and nobody had the latch assembly. Is that something that I'm going to have to get from a dealership? If anyone out there would happen to know how to fix this problem or what is causing it, I would greatly appreciate it.

Dan1029v

Did you fix this? I am having the same problem with my 2003 Suburban. What was the fix and how much did it cost?

Dan

cudablack2004

its a little button in the jam that sends a signal to your ecm telling which door is open and close or what not.....that button may seem to be functional as far as push in pop out but in realty that whole sensor/ button needs to be replaced....alot of cadillacs do it also send it to the dealership or look up how to install that item and remove it!

Ballpeen4321

I am having the same issue with my 03 Silverado. Did the fix recomended by cudablack2004 fix the problem?

gfd749

i agree with cudablack2004. ive had that problem before and it turned out to be the push sensor on the door jam.

zinsco

The 2003 Chevy Silverado does not have a push sensor on the door jam. There is nothing on the door jam.

I am having the same problem. Has anyone fixed this yet?

zinsco

bump*

TpnTx

same thing 03 avalanche and there is no little button.

What there is is a part inside the door just above the latch mechanism. It was two connectors plugged into it with two wires each.

I had a tech from a car alarm company look at it. He has all the diagnostic devices for the chevy. He thought he fixed it but not so. He said it was loose connection.

I have mine apart right now. I've jumpered each of these connectors in all possible combinations and the left door ajar msg still comes up.

I initially thought this was a BCM issue but he said it wasn't.

Ballpeen4321

I replaced my entire door jam/lock assembly with one that works from another truck. Did not fix the problem. I talked to a Chevy service guy (he was not very helpful) but he said that the problem is in the computer module "under the dash". He said they could fix it and it would be between $400 and $600 with the new computer module and re-programming. I am not happy with this but sounds like only route.

TpnTx

yep that takes me right back where I started. Its called a Body Control Module and is notorious for going crazy.

Here is what I did so far. We have a local mechanic. He pretty much said thats what he thought it was. So he referred me to a company he uses for stuff like that. Protech. They do alarms and a lot of service work.

This this guy comes out with a mobile unit(truck) and hooks the hand held device up to the truck. My check engine light showed to be MAS air something.

My locks also didn't work in the back. That turned out to be a relay in the fuse panel.

So this guy tested and tested for like an hour. In the end he told me it was not the BCM but a loose or faulty switch there at the door. He said he fixed it. 170 bucks.

Later it started doing it again but I cant swear the it didn't do it immediately. So I've lost my trail there on trial and error.

I heard that you can get someone to reset you BCM and it very well may fix the problem. You can't buy a BCM from Ebay or salvage yard. It will not work.

So I call the place back and the want me to bring it in for more diagnostic. Like I told them if you can find the problem in an hour it must be over your head. They agreed and refunded my 170.00

So I have my door panel off now. Like I said before there are two connectors with two wires each. I assume the switch is normally open but want I dont know is the diagram of the switch.

It may be one wire from one connector joins with one wire from the second connecter to make switch 1 and the other two from wires from each connector join to make switch 2.

or one could be power and a common the other connector is a switch.

If anyone could verify that I try to jumper correctly to test.