I used this YouTube link as a How-To.


Additional tips:
- Disconnect the upper radiator hose to facilitate the fan shroud removal. Tie it out of the way with a cord looped around the base of the wiper arm.
- After losing the shroud and pushing it forward place a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator to protect it while man-handling the shroud out of the engine bay.

I did not have an impact hammer or the special 36mm wrench.
I do have a 16" adjustable wrench that fit behind the fan.
The other special tool from the manual is a pulley strap wrench.
My attempts to secure a pulley strap wrench wore me out
so I squirted PB Blaster at the base of the coupling and let it sit over night.
Next morning I set the adjustable wrench and tap, tap, tapped the handle w/ a hammer to simulate the impact hammer and that loosened the coupling.

I have removed everything down to and including the water pump.
Three of the bolts and the mounting surfaces to the engine have significant corrosion.
I am currently soaking the bolts in vinegar and working with 400 grit emery cloth to polish the surfaces.
I will try a wet soaked vinegar cloth on the engine surfaces next but feel it is slightly pitted.

THE Q:
Do you have an opinion on using a thin coat of Permatex at the mating surface to assure the water pump gaskets seal?

2nd Q:
Given the corrosion on the mating surface, I want to run a radiator cleaner through the engine prior to refilling with coolant.
Are there suggestions on product and/or technique.

 

And so it begins ...
Water pump replacement.
The numbers cast into and etched into the removed water pump do not match anything for sale.
The numbers do not match dealer numbers, ACDelco #s and oemcats.com/ does not recognize them at all.

O'Reilly shows some filters that limit options by hub and impeller size. Am I at the point of breaking down the pump and possibly rebuilding it?
Parts listed 'LOOK' like the pump I have in hand and many sites provide a pump that 'matches' my vehicle.

After the exercise I went through replacing the IAC, that by all accounts did not exist, I'm dubious of parts that are suppose to fit.

Suggestions?

 

I have not purchased from RockAuto before and am very dubious of a business without any customer support.
I found the lack of CS when looking for assistance to identify a part.

Maybe I just did not want to make a video game of it, but is there a "returns policy" ?

 

Amazon is a great place to get your water pump..here it is…acdelco gold…$122

 

These reviews are so NOT reassuring.
https://www.bbb.org/us/wi/madison/pr...-0694-36000240

 

I've had good luck with rockauto. Their customer service is not worse than Amazon and they often have a better price. If want customer service go to Napa or the stealership where you will have fewer choices and pay for it. Pick your poison.

 

Will someone please confirm for me that the hex plug above the oil filter, in the picture, at bottom, is the engine block coolant drain plug?
The manual illustration does not match what I see.
There are two items 20 and 21 in the vicinity but only one plug.


Manual Page

Picture From Below

Thank you

 

This shows it farther forward in front of the engine mount for mine. If you remove it and coolant comes out, it must have been a coolant plug. Sure looks like it's going into a water jacket to me. Does it take a 17mm hex?
https://lemon-manuals.org.ua/Chevrol...g%20Procedure/

 

The face of the engine under the water pump has spots that feel pitted.

Q:
Do you have an opinion on using a thin coat of Permatex on the mating surface over the area that is pitted to assure the water pump gaskets seal?

I hear people are rubbing oil on the water pump gaskets and wonder if that in conjunction with the Peramtex would cause a problem.

 

Shouldn't be a problem if you don't go crazy with it.
If you want something that won't harden I like this gasket dressing. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...c=0&pt=1000166