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1996 Chevy 1500 wont start

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Old August 27th, 2010, 10:44 PM
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is it individual injectors in your truck?
Old August 27th, 2010, 10:55 PM
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just went through this on my truck check your Crank position sensor, the original motor in mine ate itself up and left a nasty glob of chips on the sensor (it is magnetic ya know). It was in the cover so i figured it was clean when I cleaned the cover, wrong, and then it still didnt work ! bought a new sensor It lit up right away. just my experience for what it is worth
Old August 27th, 2010, 11:39 PM
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Hi Matt Swany,

Welcome to the Chevy Forums.

Assuming you've cleaned up the injectors, re-installed them, and no soap.

Please bear with me here. The rebuilt 350. I merely want to assume nothing. Specifically, are the timing chain and gears new? Are you sure the harmonic balancer is in the right position, and never slipped? Pop off the distributor, check it for cracks, carbon tracks, and see that the rotor is in good order.

There are few actual or legal parameters for what is considered a "rebuilt " engine; some companies and mechanics hold themselves to a higher standard, some less so. Where did you get it, and how was it rebuilt? Apologies in advance if the engine was rebuilt by a dependable agency, it's just hard to assume what we cannot see for ourselves.

Last edited by therewolf; August 27th, 2010 at 11:46 PM.
Old September 9th, 2010, 7:43 PM
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OK it was my distributer cap. it had a pin hole crack causign it to ark. got it running right up. drove it back to my house. went to go to a friends house over a huge hilll and at the top it died. now it will start but will die after like 5 seconds and if given gas it backfires and pops. also my number one header is not fireing correctly
Old September 9th, 2010, 8:13 PM
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CPS!!!! classic symptoms
Old September 9th, 2010, 8:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tinbender59
CPS!!!! classic symptoms
Crankshaft Position Sensor ? what dose it look like and whatshoul i do replace it?
Old September 9th, 2010, 11:05 PM
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it is in the bottom of the timing chain cover right behind the pullys, should take an 8mm socket, but before you do that, I was thinking where did you get your cap and rotor? also check that your cap is on corectly. I have one of my cap screw holes stripped so I have to be double sure when working with it. use only GM, Bosh, or Standard, parts in your distributor others are substandard. this new generation electronics is not very forgiving.

the backfiring is a tip to "still in the cap" issue
Old September 9th, 2010, 11:36 PM
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A mechanic did it for me. I believe from a junk yard. And once he got it running he told me to put a tank of gas through it then advance it but it broke like half an hour later. Lol. So much for that.
Old September 10th, 2010, 9:37 AM
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OK, you mentioned the header not firing correctly?

What exactly are you using for an exhaust here?

Because a lack of exhaust back pressure will cause a lot of backfiring, and eventually this will start tearing up your cam and valve train.

Last edited by therewolf; September 10th, 2010 at 9:41 AM.
Old September 10th, 2010, 10:30 PM
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ya the number one header is only slightly warm after running amd the rest are hot. its got gipson headers with gipson full exhaust


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