2000 sierra hard start
#1
2000 sierra hard start
I'm sure there are other threads addressing this issue. If there is please post link.
2000 2wd gmc sierra 140k 4.3L V6
So here are the symptoms that I am experiancing. Obviously hard start. Cranking but just won't hit a lick...unitl.....you leave it sit for about 2mins. Then when you try it after a short sit it is still tough to get going but it will fire and after that run fine. No drivabilty issues that I have noticed. I put new plugs, air filter, and fuel filter on the truck with no luck.
I thought fuel pump because the pump doesn't sound the greatest upon priming cycle, but with no issues while running (even under a load) I kind of ruled that (and ignition issues) out.
While checking on the price of the fuel pump, the kid at auto zone said that there are about 10 different sensors that could affect the starting, but I trust those kids about as far as I can throw them.
I am not going to replace sensors until if find the right one, so I thought I would check with yall to see if I have over looked something simple.
Thanks in advance.
2000 2wd gmc sierra 140k 4.3L V6
So here are the symptoms that I am experiancing. Obviously hard start. Cranking but just won't hit a lick...unitl.....you leave it sit for about 2mins. Then when you try it after a short sit it is still tough to get going but it will fire and after that run fine. No drivabilty issues that I have noticed. I put new plugs, air filter, and fuel filter on the truck with no luck.
I thought fuel pump because the pump doesn't sound the greatest upon priming cycle, but with no issues while running (even under a load) I kind of ruled that (and ignition issues) out.
While checking on the price of the fuel pump, the kid at auto zone said that there are about 10 different sensors that could affect the starting, but I trust those kids about as far as I can throw them.
I am not going to replace sensors until if find the right one, so I thought I would check with yall to see if I have over looked something simple.
Thanks in advance.
#2
OK, I'm simple.(ask anybody)
How are those battery cables? After a few years they verdigris. Then the battery(new?,no?)
has to "burn through" the extra resistance of the corroded cables.(Not just the ends.) By the second or third try, the battery has managed to overcome the increased resistance, then your truck starts. For now. It'll get progressively worse, and it's the cheapest thing you can change. Sensors MAY go bad, cables DO go bad. Every time.
As to batteries, Interstate is supposed to be the best, word has it they manufacture for DieHard. I personally needed a battery in a pinch, and noticed that Interstate's weak link was readily available dealerships. Advance Auto sells an OPTIMA gel-cell 800CCA(Pricey, to be sure.) but there's a lot of Advance Autos in my neck of the woods. (East Coast)
So my personal approach to the "Which Battery?" question was : Where would I get the best support from in the event of a battery defect or failure?
How are those battery cables? After a few years they verdigris. Then the battery(new?,no?)
has to "burn through" the extra resistance of the corroded cables.(Not just the ends.) By the second or third try, the battery has managed to overcome the increased resistance, then your truck starts. For now. It'll get progressively worse, and it's the cheapest thing you can change. Sensors MAY go bad, cables DO go bad. Every time.
As to batteries, Interstate is supposed to be the best, word has it they manufacture for DieHard. I personally needed a battery in a pinch, and noticed that Interstate's weak link was readily available dealerships. Advance Auto sells an OPTIMA gel-cell 800CCA(Pricey, to be sure.) but there's a lot of Advance Autos in my neck of the woods. (East Coast)
So my personal approach to the "Which Battery?" question was : Where would I get the best support from in the event of a battery defect or failure?
Last edited by therewolf; April 13th, 2009 at 1:22 PM.
#4
Super Moderator
Professional Mechanic
Professional Mechanic
You need to check the fuel pressure. It may not be holding pressure (prime). It may not start until the lines fill back up. A quick check would be to turn the key on and off 5-10 times with a couple seconds in between ( do not crank it yet) Then try to start it if it starts then you need a pressure gauge. It should go to full fuel pressure as soon as you turn the key the first time.
#5
try this.
do your first cranck, then take several plugs out. check if they are wet with gas. it sort of sounds like sparks are flooded, you know.
ok, also, check your coolant temp sensor. those are known to cause havoc.
do your first cranck, then take several plugs out. check if they are wet with gas. it sort of sounds like sparks are flooded, you know.
ok, also, check your coolant temp sensor. those are known to cause havoc.
#6
You need to check the fuel pressure. It may not be holding pressure (prime). It may not start until the lines fill back up. A quick check would be to turn the key on and off 5-10 times with a couple seconds in between ( do not crank it yet) Then try to start it if it starts then you need a pressure gauge. It should go to full fuel pressure as soon as you turn the key the first time.
#7
2000 Sierra hard to start
My issue is nearly the same. No fault codes and no check engine light. I have replaced the fuel pump and filter. It sounds like its trying to fire! If I wait about 10 min. and try again, it starts right up and runs great. It may go days or weeks without a problem, then out of the blue, it throws a fit. I'm at a loss!
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