Hulsey1848

I am currently on my 6th EGR since April of last year. The last one lasted less than 3 weeks before my light came on again. Finally pulled out the volt meter and started testing. All readings are what they should be except EGR Solenoid does not get power (10 to 12 Volts). The PCM will set a P0404 or P1404 which are the same and a P0405. There may be a random misfire code or something once or twice but it is not consistent. A new EGR will clear all codes and turn the light off, but still no 12v to EGR. I almays have the 5v reference and around .9v on pintel position. Ground is closed. Solenoid responds to open and closed smoothly. I have stripped bach the covering on the wires a ways and they appear to be in great shape.

I have a new ACDelco PCM and ready to put it in, but i don't want to if i don't need to. Also was wondering if the BorgWarner EGR may be the problem? Should I change it to ACDelco? My Mechanic doesn't think it would be the PCM because there are no codes with a new valve.

I have not been able to find anything similar to my case online and wondered if anyone could shed some light or give me some ideas. If you have other questions i will field them as best i can.

Thank you for your help.

tech2

you won't have any power to the solenoid unless the pcm is commanding it on.

the proper way to test this is with a bi-directional scan tool that can command the circuit on and off and a test light to simulate a load.




the diagnostic needs 2 drive cycle tests to fail before it sets the light on. It probably is failing as soon as the monitor runs and sets a pending dtc.

Hulsey1848

Why would a new EGR "fix" the problem and turn the check engine light off for 1000+ miles. Then suddenly the light comes on and the solenoid is shot and will not respond? This would cause more cycles than I could count commanding the valve open and closed wouldn't it? I am fairly ignorant to wiring in a truck but working on getting better.

I don't own a scan tool but I will get hooked up to one soon. Either by my mechanic or the parts store. Theirs was on the fritz the last time we tried to troubleshoot and command. Only their code reader was working.

tech2

clearing the code doesn't mean the problem is fixed. The correct drive cycle conditions must occur for the monitor to run the test. Check the egr I/M monitor to see if it has run and passed.


When you take out the old egr valves; Is the problem with the positon sensor or the solenoid? Is the solenoid wiring open?