Key Won't Turn in Door Cylinder 2000 silverado ext cab.
Just bought my first silverado (truck in general) yesterday and I'm in love. Already have a huge list of parts to get for it, and I can't wait to get started. But the truck has one minor issue...
Now, before I get flamed for not searching. I looked it up for quite a few hours, and basically everyone had a different situation, or the solution provided was the same and didn't work for me.
Situation: Picked up a 2000 Silverado yesterday. Didn't realize that the key doesn't turn in the door until I got home... So basically, I have to get open the passengers side door, hit unlock, walk around the truck and get in.
The key turns clockwise maybe 3 degrees, and I hear a click inside. It doesn't move counter clockwise at all. But the truck locks and unlocks with the inside lock switches.
Every thing I've searched comes up to, "spray WD40 in it" which I've been doing on and off all day and no change at all.
I'm away at college right now, so I don't really have the tools to get inside the door and mess with anything.
Any insight? Should I just keep trying the WD40? I've been spraying it in the lock, in the door handle hole (that opens when you pull on it) and inside the door itself through that hole that's covered by the rubber piece.
Thanks in advance.
Now, before I get flamed for not searching. I looked it up for quite a few hours, and basically everyone had a different situation, or the solution provided was the same and didn't work for me.
Situation: Picked up a 2000 Silverado yesterday. Didn't realize that the key doesn't turn in the door until I got home... So basically, I have to get open the passengers side door, hit unlock, walk around the truck and get in.
The key turns clockwise maybe 3 degrees, and I hear a click inside. It doesn't move counter clockwise at all. But the truck locks and unlocks with the inside lock switches.
Every thing I've searched comes up to, "spray WD40 in it" which I've been doing on and off all day and no change at all.
I'm away at college right now, so I don't really have the tools to get inside the door and mess with anything.
Any insight? Should I just keep trying the WD40? I've been spraying it in the lock, in the door handle hole (that opens when you pull on it) and inside the door itself through that hole that's covered by the rubber piece.
Thanks in advance.
if the linkage is ok:
if it has aftermarket chrome handle covers that stick over the door handles: the cover will stop the key from being inserted far enough to work.
If its just seized from lack of use....remove it and soak it in trans fluid for a couple days.
if it has aftermarket chrome handle covers that stick over the door handles: the cover will stop the key from being inserted far enough to work.
If its just seized from lack of use....remove it and soak it in trans fluid for a couple days.
I have not had the luxury of pulling the inner panels on a GMT-800 but I've done countless GMT-400's, the process generally does not change much from platform to platform and in this case even manufacturer to manufacturer.
1. Start out by checking inside handles for screws, there are generally only one or two and remove them.
2. If you have manual windows take a small flat handle screw driver and pop the C clip inside and behind the window crank. (Disregard this step if you have power windows)
3. After that carefully pop the push pins around the outside of the inner panel. For this you can use a flat head screwdriver but I prefer flat opening tools that I can get onto both sides of the pin. These push pins that are used inside the inner door panel are notorious for breaking, While they are not expensive it's still a couple five bucks you don't need to spend so try not to break them. You can break a couple and still have the panel hold just fine but don't go ballistic on the panel. If they pull out of the door panel as opposed to pulling from the door, simply pull it from the door and put if back in it's correct hole on the inner panel.
4. Now that the panel is loose, Make sure to carefully unplug any power door components. To my experience most doors from late nineties and early 2000's have two plugs running the buttons.
5. If you have manual mirrors you might need to pop the adjuster ****, look to see if there is a separation in the panels. If so it can be left alone.
6. At this point, if you have done it right you should find it attached only at the top and flapping freely at the bottom. If not you missed something, and from my experience it's usually a screw. Go back and look at where it's still catching and remove whatever fastener is there. Once free around the outside and bottom, simply lift straight upward until it comes out of the window space.
7. Then your panel should be off and free of the truck and you should see the plastic covering over the access points.
Also note, this plastic is usually held in place by some nasty urethane that will get everywhere if you are not careful. This is necessary stuff so you can't just clean it off the door so be careful and don't stick your arm or shirt in it
1. Start out by checking inside handles for screws, there are generally only one or two and remove them.
2. If you have manual windows take a small flat handle screw driver and pop the C clip inside and behind the window crank. (Disregard this step if you have power windows)
3. After that carefully pop the push pins around the outside of the inner panel. For this you can use a flat head screwdriver but I prefer flat opening tools that I can get onto both sides of the pin. These push pins that are used inside the inner door panel are notorious for breaking, While they are not expensive it's still a couple five bucks you don't need to spend so try not to break them. You can break a couple and still have the panel hold just fine but don't go ballistic on the panel. If they pull out of the door panel as opposed to pulling from the door, simply pull it from the door and put if back in it's correct hole on the inner panel.
4. Now that the panel is loose, Make sure to carefully unplug any power door components. To my experience most doors from late nineties and early 2000's have two plugs running the buttons.
5. If you have manual mirrors you might need to pop the adjuster ****, look to see if there is a separation in the panels. If so it can be left alone.
6. At this point, if you have done it right you should find it attached only at the top and flapping freely at the bottom. If not you missed something, and from my experience it's usually a screw. Go back and look at where it's still catching and remove whatever fastener is there. Once free around the outside and bottom, simply lift straight upward until it comes out of the window space.
7. Then your panel should be off and free of the truck and you should see the plastic covering over the access points.
Also note, this plastic is usually held in place by some nasty urethane that will get everywhere if you are not careful. This is necessary stuff so you can't just clean it off the door so be careful and don't stick your arm or shirt in it
Last edited by Ronin1014; May 5, 2014 at 10:01 AM.
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