why not try the cleaner first? it is worth a shot because it had sat for 6 years it may just be a stuck injector
one more thing...when u pulled the heads was it #2 cyl that was blown? if yes then just skip the cleaning and replace the spider because that would be the reason it blew

 

Be more specific about cleaning. Like I said, I have ran about 1/2 a bottle of SeaFoam through it. Not sure how else to clean it, is there something more thorough I can do? And that's a good question, I don't know where the HG blew, it blew on the previous owner and they actually did the HG replacement. He just stopped the repair after bolting the heads back on. (He took over the payments on a friend's truck and arthritis was killing him at the time.)

 

Some good news though... thought I would do a compression check to see how much life was in this thing. Everything came up +/- 2 points of 150.

 

If the injector doesnt fix it take off the valve covers start it and make sure all rocker arms are moving. Look at the studs and see if one is pulled out of the head. Have seen this many of times.

 

^^ Good idea. Thanks man. Will check that if the spider fails to fix it.

 

Anyone know the cheapest place for the new style spider? And what extra parts I need? From what I have read it is just the new style bracket and an upper manifold gasket set and an O ring kit?

 

before you do all that what are you looking for? You suspect #2 FI isnt firing? Did you test the electrical connection to see if the injector is getting power? Did you feel it as it was running to see if it was pulsing? Are you sure you re getting spark?

 

The cap/rotor/wires/plugs are new, and I did try switching the plugs/wires. I am pretty sure it is not a spark issue.

Did comp test, so it's not a compression issue.

Manifold looked clear when I had it apart awhile ago, so as long as valves are opening in the head, I don't see how air is an issue.

The only other thing is fuel. And it's a pretty common issue with the old poppet style CSPI. I did not test for injector pulse, not exactly sure how to do that with the spider system, as there is no individual injector plugs. The only testing I have done fuel-wise was the rag thing I mentioned a few posts ago. Pulled the plug on the coil, cranked it a few times, and fished a scrap of rag into the spark plug holes on #2 and #4. #2 came out dry and smell-free, but #4 came out smelling of gas. Not a perfect test, but only thing I could think of. If you have another way to test an individual injector a CSPI system, I am all ears. Also, #2 spark plug was almost as clean as it was new, but all the other plugs are kinda dirty. (Not bad looking, just showing signs of actual combustion unlike #2)

 

Hey wait a minute Goatie, I thought this was a MultiPort FI, all this talk about spiders and whatnot?

Ok, mon frere...you changed coil, cap and plugs, but did you SEE spark? Take out plug #2 and start the car, look for spark right at the plug. If you seeth spark then thou lacketh fuel. Now is when you take off the valve cover and look for movement on the lifters. What could be the case...

SINCE YOU HAVE GOOD COMPRESSION, GOOD SPARK, NO RESTRICTIONS IN THE INTAKE AND A HEAD GASKET JOB DONE LONG AGO THAT WAS SINCE NEGLECTED AND UNFINISHED UNTIL YOU CAME ALONG...is that the Intake Valve is not opening. It may be rusted shut or stuck or seized, or he may have forgotten to put the nut back on the stud or put the retaining clip on the valve stem or line up with the rocker arm with the lifter or valve. Take a look.

 

This is a 96, so it is CSPI.. got the fuel 'spider' inside of the intake manifold. Poppets are notorious for clogging up, so they were redesigned a few years later and GM put out a bulletin/replacement setup out on it.

And I will take a look under the valve cover this weekend (with my crappy work schedule and lack of a garage, I only get to work on this truck on Sats/Suns. weather permitting) and see if I see anything out of the ordinary. Although I doubt he loosened anything inside of the head, besides the head bolts. Very possible that the valve rusted/seized though. But will I be able to verify that with only taking the valve cover off? If there a way to 'unseize' it without tearing apart the head?