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2014 Chevy Silverado
Platform: Truck, GMT 400, 800, & 900

Odd overheating problem

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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 5:45 AM
  #11  
rugman's Avatar
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From: Warwick ,NY .USA
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Originally Posted by Tyger
When you added back the coolant, did you use Dexcool? If not your coolant could gel as Dexcool isn't compatible with any other coolant. Mixing coolants can also lead to corrosion. Even if you drain the Dexcool until it stops flowing/dripping out of the nipple, there is always some left in the engine.

Oh yeah....if this is the first time you're servicing the tranny, with 230K on it... power flushing can do more harm than good. Drain it by dropping the pan. Wipe the machined surfaces and pan with a lint free rag, and change the filter.
Tranny fluid looks fine and smells not burned. Will drain it - not crazy about the power flush thing.
Had my stepson do some work on it - may have mixed anti freeze (he can't remember). I have run coolant system cleaner through it for a second time just in case. I have been running straight water since this started until have figured this out.
I am going to change the lower hose in case it is collapsing at high speed. If not - pulling the rad. Not too many places around that service or check them anymore. Called a place near me and phone was forwarded to 1800 radiator.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #12  
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Is the lower hose lined with a spring? If so it can't collapse(squeeze it). What color is the Fluid? If the fluid is neon green you have the basic antifreeze, Clear reddish tint is the Dexcool, If the color is red/brown and really murky then it is rusted and this most likely will be your issue. I would drain the water out rinse thoroughly, use Prestone radiator flush as directed. This product helped me a lot when my 78 Blazer was doing this similar issue. I ran it half the time it directed and I did not have the temps I was seeing when I started. Had I let it run the full time it required, it would have worked much better. My temps were upwards of 235+ and after the usage it was down around 200+. I was trying confirm a radiator clog or not.


If none of this other stuff worked, you will need to start looking at a broken head gasket or a cracked head. If the cooling system checked out to be functioning correctly, you will need to run a pressure check on the cooling system (rent this from a parts store) to see if it holds your pressures. If not and you see no leaks, start your truck (while still hooked up to the pressure tester) and see if the pressures raise or drop. If your pressures change, unfortunately either the head gasket or the head it self is bad. Good Luck.

Hope it helps.
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Old Apr 29, 2011 | 6:49 PM
  #13  
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Be sure to remove the drain plugs on the engine block or else you will leave a lot of old coolant behind (even after rigorous flushing with hose). there is one on each side of the block just above the oil pan. One side may be the knock sensor doubling as a plug.
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Old May 3, 2011 | 6:35 AM
  #14  
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It was the radiator! Swaped it out last nite - running like a champ.
Thanks for all the help!
Now on to the check engine light!
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Old May 3, 2011 | 9:26 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by rugman
I thought of the hose - I can see it and it looks fine - unless it is collapsing at high speed?

That is exactly what they do.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 11:53 AM
  #16  
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The "check engine" light could very well be your anti-knock

sensors. Under your intake manifold, about 75$ for sensors + @ 40$

for gasket kit for DIY. It's a PITA, because it really isn't detrimental to

your engine or emission controls,and when you take off your intake

you're opening a new can of worms.
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