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Tip on removing a frozen or rusted wheel hub assembly
#1
Tip on removing a frozen or rusted wheel hub assembly
I spent about half a day using heat, BFHs, curse words, howling, pb blaster, etc but couldn't get the rusted frozen wheel hub bearing assembly to budge out of the front knuckle on my 2000 Chevy Silverado 2wd.
So I got 'smart' (after half a day, I'm not sure it counts.)
To save anyone else, here is what I did. You can adapt it to what you have lying around. It took 15 minutes to pull the hub out using this method. And, the best thing is, it doesn't put any stress on the ball joints or tie rod, etc.
I attached an adjustable receiver bar I had with the ball out, to a wheel bolt, and put the chevy's own wheel jack against the knuckle and cranked. Basically you have to create an extension of the hub so you can push it with the jack. Worked really well. Hope you can see how it is done in the pics. Clearly you have to have another jack to jack up the truck!
Oh yes, I cranked in 3 different positions around the knuckle to even out the outward pressure so the hub would slide out as easy as possible. With the 'extension' on the hub it's as easy as releasing the jack, turning the hub, putting the jack in position again and cranking.
So I got 'smart' (after half a day, I'm not sure it counts.)
To save anyone else, here is what I did. You can adapt it to what you have lying around. It took 15 minutes to pull the hub out using this method. And, the best thing is, it doesn't put any stress on the ball joints or tie rod, etc.
I attached an adjustable receiver bar I had with the ball out, to a wheel bolt, and put the chevy's own wheel jack against the knuckle and cranked. Basically you have to create an extension of the hub so you can push it with the jack. Worked really well. Hope you can see how it is done in the pics. Clearly you have to have another jack to jack up the truck!
Oh yes, I cranked in 3 different positions around the knuckle to even out the outward pressure so the hub would slide out as easy as possible. With the 'extension' on the hub it's as easy as releasing the jack, turning the hub, putting the jack in position again and cranking.
Last edited by pdrayton; January 2nd, 2013 at 9:06 PM.
#3
Good call on the vinegar. I have sulphuric acid too... But I don't think the vinegar would be able to get in there - it was soooo tight. But maybe I'm wrong. I'll try it next time....
#6
CF Active Member
Good use of your head and the tools available. It just goes to show that a determined mechanic will find the way.
I had an instance today and a screwdriver saved my day. Was changing the oil pressure on my 95 5.7L and when i was installing the fitting back into the block under the distributor the brass fitting broke
Didn't have any easy outs and after about 2 minutes of searching found a screwdriver that fit the inside of the fitting, one good whop with a hammer and careful turning with a pair of channel locks and got it out.
I had an instance today and a screwdriver saved my day. Was changing the oil pressure on my 95 5.7L and when i was installing the fitting back into the block under the distributor the brass fitting broke
Didn't have any easy outs and after about 2 minutes of searching found a screwdriver that fit the inside of the fitting, one good whop with a hammer and careful turning with a pair of channel locks and got it out.
#7
PB blaster and two hammers
I have an 05 Malibu Maxx and I tried just about every trick in the book to get my seized up drivers side wheel bearing off. I tried using the 13 mm socket and extension (and lots of pb blaster) try to beat it out with a hammer, but got nothing. My solution was brilliantly simple. If you don't have one handy, go to Home Depot and pick up a 40 blacksmith hammer (made by Estwing) for about $20. Also, if you don't have one, get a straight claw hammer (I use a 22 oz.) for about the same price. Simply hit around the hub (use the 40 oz. andplenty of force) until you start to see some separation. Then put the claw end of your claw hammer in the separation and tap the head of the claw hammer with the 40 oz. and pull the assembly towards you. Repeat this process working around the assembly until it comes free. Then just make sure you have a wire brush or 1 inch wire wheel to clean up the rust and some brake cleaner to rinse it out.
Last edited by chris ilbrink; June 21st, 2018 at 6:57 AM.
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