2 problems: Horn and Washer Fluid
#1
2 problems: Horn and Washer Fluid
Howdy,
I've got a 2004 Aveo Hatchback. My horn no longer works. When I press the button, I hear a clicking and can feel something trip below my left foot on the foot rest. It blows the 10A fuse each time. I tried putting a 20A in and got the same result. Oddly enough a 15A doesn't blow, but the horn still doesn't work. These fuses by the way are the engine fuses, not the cabin fuses. That one's still fine. I looked at the horn itself and it seems really rusted. I don't know how to test it. I'm going to replace it and see if a new one works. Any other suggestions?
Also, the washer fluid will spray on the back window, but not on the front. UNLESS IT'S RAINING. Then they spray just fine. I have to believe that this is an electrical problem. Like the humidity in the air during rain helps the spark jump across a gap or something? The problem is that I can't find the pump. Is it in the wheel well, or under the hood lining? Please help!!!
I've got a 2004 Aveo Hatchback. My horn no longer works. When I press the button, I hear a clicking and can feel something trip below my left foot on the foot rest. It blows the 10A fuse each time. I tried putting a 20A in and got the same result. Oddly enough a 15A doesn't blow, but the horn still doesn't work. These fuses by the way are the engine fuses, not the cabin fuses. That one's still fine. I looked at the horn itself and it seems really rusted. I don't know how to test it. I'm going to replace it and see if a new one works. Any other suggestions?
Also, the washer fluid will spray on the back window, but not on the front. UNLESS IT'S RAINING. Then they spray just fine. I have to believe that this is an electrical problem. Like the humidity in the air during rain helps the spark jump across a gap or something? The problem is that I can't find the pump. Is it in the wheel well, or under the hood lining? Please help!!!
#2
unplug the horn and use a test light on the wire. Put the test light clamp to ground and test the orange wire. It should have constant power. Now put the clamp on the positive terminal of the battery, and test the black wire. it should light up when you press the horn and not snap the fuse. If thats happening, then put a new horn on it. if the fuse still snaps after the horn is d\c, you have a short somewhere.
Believe it or not, the horn circuits have 3 fuses involved at one point or another. 2 underhood: HORN 10amps & IP FUSE 30amps
there is also one in the vehicle, location F12 10amps...make sure they are all good before you start your diagnoses
The washer pump is in the reservoir, go through the wheel well to get at it...here is a pic of the reservoir with pump
Believe it or not, the horn circuits have 3 fuses involved at one point or another. 2 underhood: HORN 10amps & IP FUSE 30amps
there is also one in the vehicle, location F12 10amps...make sure they are all good before you start your diagnoses
The washer pump is in the reservoir, go through the wheel well to get at it...here is a pic of the reservoir with pump
#3
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On the horn , if you dont have a test light just pull the + wire off then jump it straight to the + on the battery using a jumper wire. If no honk , bad horn, if it honks , bad connection, relay or fuse someware. With your other probs , it kinda seems they all might be related to a short or bad connection. Shawn 's way will work as well.
Last edited by Mike Sigmond; April 28th, 2009 at 6:45 PM. Reason: spellin
#4
where would i find a test light? the problem with this horn is that it has the same kind of "coupler" or whatever (the connection) as the headlights. that is to say, it's not a typical horn connection with a positive wire and a negative wire. it's like a female end on the horn and a male end on the wire. they snap together, almost like putting a usb cable in a usb port. what i'm saying is that if this test light isn't designed for this type of connection, it won't do me much good. and i really don't want to strip the wires because i have zero electrical experience. are you guys familiar with this particular horn or connection?
#5
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O , I see, I was thinking of older horns that ground off the chassy and just have a positive lead going to it. They have light testers at Auto stores and hardware stores in the electrical aisle. I trust shawnvw knows what he is talking about.
#6
The horn in this car has a constant power to it, with a switched ground, so pulling the lead off and touching it to the batery won't work. test lights are universal...they work on all connectors. You just need to touch the tip of the test light to the metal part of the connector
#7
Better yet, remove the horn and get yourself some clip leads - wires with aligator clips on both ends. Hook the horn directly to the battery. It should sound. If no sound it's bad. My Malibu has two horns. They stopped working. First I found a blown fuse. But the sound was way muffled after I put a good fuse in. I tested both horns this way and one of them didn't work. I replaced both, since they're in the front and had a lot of salt damage already, for $35. And the new ones are louder!
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