justme77002@gmail.com

Hello. I fried something and would like some help please.
So I got into an accident and punched my brake fluid container tab into the side of my battery. Worked ok for a week before I was having to use other cars to jump it. I got a battery in December and take it to the Autoparts store I bought the battery from. They warranty it out and do an exchange for me anyways. I didn't know it had a hole in the side until i had taken it out and brought it inside to the counter. Still got a new battery for no cost. Awesome right?

Well, the problem started when I put my new battery in to install it, I hooked it up the way the posts sat before, without checking which posts go to which terminals. Long story short, I think I fried something in the alarm system, because the car refuses to start. Tested the battery at the store, and it was still good. The 100amp fuse got fried that protects the main fuse control bank that's in the engine compartment. But I had the posts hooked up wrong for a good 30 seconds. Replaced the 100 amp fuse, so that's set, but the car is acting like the security system is active and refuses to turn over. Also, the battery has a long thin black wire that runs from the positive post to the negative post, and I have NO idea what it does. it has two features that really might give away what this security redundant feature is. One is a 7.5 amp fuse that is still good and has never been fried. the other is a power connector that is capped, and it looks like the end of an old power cord to a laptop computer. And if it isn't connected, the car refuses to start like it is doing now. Here are some of the fixes I have tried to get the security system bypassed:

1. Put key in door lock on drivers side. Turned to unlock position for 30 seconds. Nothing. Also tried to move it between open and lock position multiple times.
2. Put key in and turned to "on" position for 15 minutes. Then turned to OFF position for 2 seconds and then tried to start. Nothing.
3. Replaced the ECM brain in case something got fried during the battery fiasco. I had an extra one that was laying around believe it or not.
4. Checked Key Fob battery and it was fine.

So that is it. I think i am going to have to go up into the wiring harness under the steering wheel and completely disconnect it. But I am looking for a work around before I mess with that. I know its the security system that's acting like the car was stolen because when I put the key in and turn it on, all the light come on and then go out. and the buttons on the key fob that control door locks and trunk do not work. Can someone please help if possible? I can take pictures if need be. my cart is sitting at the auto parts store still. Been raining but about to go push it to move it.

2011 Chevy Aveo LS 1.6L
I forgot what other information is needed. I can take pictures if needed

mountainmanjoe

then the battery is shorted out

justme77002@gmail.com

No, the thin wire is required for the car to start. I have an idea that the wire has something to do with the alarm system. I know it makes no sense. How does a wire connects at both posts even exist. But it does and it's weird. Like I said it has a 7.5 amp on it.

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