Unbelievable
I apologize in advance, but I need to vent. My wife and I are the “proud” owners of a 2010 Aveo. Our car started running bad and the CEL came on. It was surging, the gas mileage nose dived and it was spark knocking. My code reader gave code P0171, system too lean. An internet search gave suggestions of dirty fuel injector(s), dirty/faulty mass air flow sensor or a faulty O2 sensor. I decided to try the easy stuff first. I dumped a can of quality injector cleaner in it with no results. I then started on the mass air flow sensor. I purchased a can of name brand mass air flow sensor cleaner and began to disconnect the sensor. As soon as I unhooked it from the intake duct, I found the problem. The air intake duct from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body was badly broken in two places. (presumably caused by me flexing the duct every time I removed the cover to check the air filter) The part ended up being a dealer item, not available at the local auto parts store. I contacted the local Chevrolet dealer and learned that the part cost $213.70 and would have to be ordered. (the car is no longer on warranty) After I caught my breath, I decided that I had no choice but to order the part because we need the car. When it arrived, I found out why it was so expensive. It came with a new mass air flow sensor. I took it back and tried to explain that I didn’t need the sensor, I only needed the duct. I showed them the old duct. It was only a flexible rubber hose, 10” long, 2 ¾ inches inside diameter on one end and 2 ½ on the other with a 90 degree bend on the larger end. There were no fittings on it, it was just a “plain-Jane” flexible rubber hose. The parts man double checked his computer and said he was sorry but the part was only available as a single unit. Funny thing that the new duct was connected to the sensor with a common hose clamp. 10 seconds with a flat screw driver made it two separate units. I also pointed out that the sensor and the duct had two separate GM part numbers stamped on them. (Duct: 96808176, SENSOR:13262124) All of my reasoning was to no avail, I had to spend the money if I wanted the car to run. Then the parts man decided to rub salt in the wound by telling me that it is a common problem. Whats the common problem I asked, the hose failing or GM screwing their customers on such a simple part? I am now also the "proud" owner of a brand new mass air flow sensor that I don't need. No wonder GM needed a government bail out.
You were smart enought to figure it out on your own. I don't think anyone makes air cleaners for any car in the aftermarket other than cold air intakes.
the cars are korean daewou crap bombs. Never met anyone happy with these cars. They are always getting fixed for cylinder heads, throttle bodies, ecm, and wheel bearings. Worst product with a gm badge ever.
When your at 60 000miles do the timing belt an don't be late. The earlier models broke timing belts before the service interval. Get the kit that includes the new improved timing belt, water pump and idler pulley. labour time is approx 4 hrs.
the cars are korean daewou crap bombs. Never met anyone happy with these cars. They are always getting fixed for cylinder heads, throttle bodies, ecm, and wheel bearings. Worst product with a gm badge ever.
When your at 60 000miles do the timing belt an don't be late. The earlier models broke timing belts before the service interval. Get the kit that includes the new improved timing belt, water pump and idler pulley. labour time is approx 4 hrs.
Last edited by tech2; Feb 20, 2013 at 6:10 PM.
I know it is too late, but I think you could have gone to a large hose dealer and found some hose close enough in size to make it work. I have done similar things many years ago and saved lots of money.
I tried to find a radiator hose that was the right measurements but wasn't able to find one. I chose not to go to a junk yard because my hose was all weather checked and I figured that another used one, even if I could find one for a 2010, would be in the same condition. As far as the timing belt change, my owners manual says to change it at 100,000 miles and my car has a 100,000 mile drive train warranty. I took the manual in to the dealer and showed it to the service manager along with the warranty book. (that said that if the timing belt is changed as per the manufacturers recommendation, any damage caused by belt failure will be covered) He didn't believe it either, until he checked their computer and found that the 2010 model took a different belt than the 2009 did and the new belt was nearly twice as expensive as the older one. He said that apparently GM is now using a better belt in their 2010 model. I have it in writing from GM that a belt failure within 100,000 miles is covered and I fully intend on holding them to it.
did not know the 2010 got the revised belt. When the time comes do the idler and water pump.
Best not to make your own air snorkel. The air flow into these engines and pcv flows are tuned/calibrated. I've seen performance system air ducting create dtc's on the new trucks.
Best not to make your own air snorkel. The air flow into these engines and pcv flows are tuned/calibrated. I've seen performance system air ducting create dtc's on the new trucks.
Thank you for the advice on the water pump. I intended to replace the tensioner and/or idlers when the time gets here. (My daughter's Subaru has an internal water pump driven by the timing belt) I must admit though that I thought very hard about making up a snorkel pipe out of two molded radiator hoses and an exhaust adapter but in the end chose to bite the bullet and buy the right part. It still upsets me to no end that such a simple part costs so much money.






