Welcome to the forum...
What year and model of vehicle?
It would be best to have the oil pressure checked as the pump could be failing. The loss of the engine is the worst case.

 

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As previous poster paintit posted, it may be a sensor problem. However, that is not a diagnosis, just a suggestion. When the check engine light stays on, it could mean numerous things. I would encourage you to take the vehicle in for an inspection, better safe than sorry.

If you would like, if you PM me your VIN number, I can research your vehicle further.

I look forward to your response.

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

I need to do exactly the same repair. I would love to know exactly what size wrench and socket you used to do the work.

 

OK, so this thread gave me the encouragement to attempt the fix myself. So, Michael it was a major PITA but I was able to make it happen. After disconnecting the brake booster hose, I was able to fit a 27mm socket over the sending unit and get the failed sender off. Getting the new sender on was a real challenge having to get it threaded blindly. Lastly was getting the electrical connection back in place. It turns out that jacking up the body for a little extra clearance made all the difference.

 

I used a shorty ratchet and bought a oxygen sensor socket for the ratchet.
Its tough to get to locate so i took mirror on a pole extender and a good flashlight to locate it. then it was just a matter of getting the socket positioned right to get it on the sensor. once it was on (straight) the rest was a snap. I put the socket on first to make sure it was on correct. Also I used a swivel head on the ratchet, to make it a little easier to manuver.
Good luck. Let me know how you made out.

 

Mr. Pattison, I have had the exact same issue on three occasions. Each time the solution was an oil change but the important factor was the filter. I had been having changes at a big chain but they have switched to cheap filters. The filters seem to keep collapsing. I have changed to doing the oil changes myself and using synthetic oils and a top grade filter. Its a little pricier but it also alleviates the oil consumption issue to a certain degree. This balances the cost a bit. However I have just had the oils sender fail and was on line searching that solution out when I noticed your comment. It is not a good idea to drive it if you are not SURE you are getting oil.
Every single time it happened I limped home and changes the oil.

 

Has anyone else done this repair without taking off the manifold. Any further input besides what is above? I'm looking at the pages in the manual, but I want to do it without that hassle. Dealership wants $125 for the labor to replace it. I have done most of my own work on all 3 of my vehicles (including the complete top end on my Typhoon) and feel I could wiggle in there and do it. Anyone also know what type of sealant I am supposed to use on the threads?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

 

fighting5thsvt Welcome to the forum...
If you read post #8 in this tread you will see that it can be done without removing the manifold...

 

I read all of the posts. Just throwing it out there to see if anyone else had any pointers or tricks.

Thank you for the welcome--glad to be here and to have stumbled onto this forum...

 

Hello all. I just replaced the oil pressure sensor on my wife's 2006 Yukon (5.3 engine). I was able to replace with only removing the plastic intake cover and the air intake (from air cleaner to throttle body). This required loosening three 5/16 screws (one on intake cover and two clamps on air intake) and four screws (air cleaner cover). These were removed to ensure they weren't cracked as I laid across engine to reach back of engine on the drivers side (right side) to remove the sensor. Location is directly under firewall before back of engine meets the transmission. I used a 3/4" drive, two 6" 3/4" extensions, ¾” swivel, and a Autozone Oil pressure sensor socket #25254 to remove the sensor. I will try and add pictures for location and to show what I removed. Took 15min max and corrected the issue with the oil pressure guage jumping around and chiming. Hopefully this will help
Pictures as promised:
Plastic intake cover removed (one 5/16 bolt):<O></O>
<O></O>
Air intake (from air cleaner to throttle body - two 5/16 clamp screws and 4 air cleaner screws:<O></O>


Oil sensor socket from Autozone:<O></O>


Driver, extensions, swivel, and socket:<O></O>


Location of sensor when laying on top of engine towards windshield:<O></O>


Another view:<O></O>