I tried to take out the power center, but got some resistance when lifing the handles and gave up due to fear of really screwing something up. So -- I made an appointment at the dealership.

The day before my Tahoe was to go into the dealer, I hit a bump on the highway and odly the lights stopped flickering. Go figure.

I still brought it in. They spent 2 hours checking all of the grounds, etc... and found nothing. Then they ran a computer scan and found that there was an error on the BCM. When they researched the error code, one of the symptoms of the error was flickering lights. I really don't think that's the cause of the issue, BUT.....

They were having problems getting the update from GM so I brought it back yesterday and they were able to re-program the BCM.

I got charged $49 for the 2 hours (the service manager is a good guy). Then they banged me $99 for the re-programming.

For now, things are stable. More to come if it happens again.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

 

So... the problem is back with a vengance!!! It's horrible. I need to find a way to get the dealer to work on this cheaper than book rate. Not happy.

Anyone else have this issue and fixed it?? Pictures of where the fix was maybe??

When the lights are flickering, the engine runs rough.

 

Mine turned out not to be flickering or even the run down issue, mine turned out to be the lights slightly dimming when the radiator cooling fan(s) kicked on.....

 

Iam thinking back on two trucks almost same issue when they came in the shop. One was the passenger window switch at times it would come on by itself cause light to ficker, The other one was i bad head light switch how i found that was i tap the swith when i was driving at night and the light started to ficker. customer ask me to take home there truck to help seed up dia cause its hard to test lights out during the day.hope this helps oh both truck where 07 tahoe

 

I recently experienced the same issues you are describing, and it ended up being the alternator. I had replaced the battery about two months prior, so I was fairly certain that was not the case. Since the problem continued, I had Auto Zone do basic checks on both the battery and alternator, but both checked okay. However, about two days later, during a road trip none the less and during a down pour, the lights were horrendous, and after reading a couple of threads saying that the alternator had checked out, i decided to replace it. No issues with the lights since, but be prepared to drop about 200 for a replacement. You can do it yourself in about 30-45 minutes with little issue if you are mechanically inclined.

 

2006 silverado. 4.3L V6.

items replaced in the last 2 months. Battery =delco. plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, and alternator=napa gold w/lifetime warranty.

Still flickering dome and gauge cluster lights. mostly at idle. It will also run a bit rough when this happens. I also noticed the headlight/dome light switch backing light goes out intermittently.

 

Welcome to the forum.

I'd try checking the ground circuits starting at the battery and chassis.

 

Hey all, I have a 2005 Suburban, about 175k miles on it. I am 1 year new to the burb and this is my first Chevy ever. My lights don't flicker exactly, but definitely dim when the AC kicks on, or if I am at low RPMs and turn the steering will...like parked and about to back out of a spot or something.

I am planning to just replace the alternator as that is my experience with every other old, used, and/or junk truck I have ever owned with high and super high mileage (don't think this one is junk as it is the nicest driver I have ever had for me). What I AM wondering on alternators is that Advance Auto recommends as a direct fit the 145 amp. Now I tow a small camper with a small battery system and I am wondering if I should spring for the 165 amp alternator to help when I am towing and charging the camper battery. Also, with 4 kids and a million gadgets plugged and charging all the time, I am hoping the extra alt will help. Just don't want to over power or blow up any systems. Not worried about the small cost difference.

Thanks!
Jeff

 

The 165 will work fine. It will just put out the current that is needed to charge the batteries.