08 Tahoe freaked out
#11
this is what i've found on rock auto
it does go by vin code
you can look in your glove compartment
should be a sticker with these codes in there
i know mine is LC9, but all this other stuff is confusing
i'd give them a call-they'll help you out
ACDELCO Part # MU1474 {#19133543, 19167710, 19208962} Module Assembly; w/ Internal Strainer One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. w/Fuel Level Sensor; LT Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; LTZ Model Engine Vin 0 Code LMG; LT Model Engine Vin 0 Code LMG; LTZ Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; LS Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; Z71 Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; LS Model Engine Vin 0 Code LMG (Only 3 Remaining) $234.79
ACDELCO Part # MU1657 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Module Assembly; w/ Internal Strainer One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. LT Model Engine VIN J Code LY5; LTZ Model Engine VIN J Code LY5; Engine VIN J Code LY5 $282.79
And drive it around until your on E!! that way you'll get less of a mess and waste
it does go by vin code
you can look in your glove compartment
should be a sticker with these codes in there
i know mine is LC9, but all this other stuff is confusing
i'd give them a call-they'll help you out
ACDELCO Part # MU1474 {#19133543, 19167710, 19208962} Module Assembly; w/ Internal Strainer One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. w/Fuel Level Sensor; LT Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; LTZ Model Engine Vin 0 Code LMG; LT Model Engine Vin 0 Code LMG; LTZ Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; LS Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; Z71 Model Engine Vin 3 Code LC9; LS Model Engine Vin 0 Code LMG (Only 3 Remaining) $234.79
ACDELCO Part # MU1657 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Module Assembly; w/ Internal Strainer One of our most popular parts
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the Canadian Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. LT Model Engine VIN J Code LY5; LTZ Model Engine VIN J Code LY5; Engine VIN J Code LY5 $282.79
And drive it around until your on E!! that way you'll get less of a mess and waste
Last edited by trainwreck91; March 8th, 2014 at 1:53 PM.
#12
THanks for the help Trainwreck! I will try to order one asap. I agree with the change the tank on E thing. I had to fill up today and keep just putting in a quarter of a tank until I get the pump in.
#13
Update:
I decided to replace myself. I am a pretty handy person, but have never done anything like this before. I bought a fuel pump online (you need to talk to the parts guys and be careful which one you buy because there are several for same year. Need to go off of VIN/Engine type) for $200 from Rock Auto.
I dropped the tank, (hint those fuel lines can be tricky but you do not need any special tools as most people say, just a screwdriver and take your time). I was surprised how rusted the fuel pump was for an ’08. The locking ring was fused on. Took about an hour with a hammer, chisel, and WD40 to get that sucker loose. Pretty much destroyed it also. Replaced pump (inside of tank looked great (no debris). While reinstalling the pump I accidentally snapped off the fuel pressure sensor. (I think the neighbors could hear me cursing 5 blocks away). Couldn’t use the old one because I snapped that one while taking the tank out. So the 4 hour job just got longer.
The next day I bought the sensor and new locking ring locally, replaced swapped out the pump. Ran into an issue not being able to close the locking ring all the way. I beat on the thing forever. Grease didn’t help. Finally ended up making a key that would lock the ring in place so it cannot come undone. Next time I may end up buying a lock ring wrench to help. I think even with that I wouldn’t have been able to get it. It’s like the o-ring was too big.
Engine starts up and runs great now! I will say that the moment of turning the key was pretty suspensful. I was expecting to hear a click and be back at square one. Learned a new skill and saved myself about $700, not too bad.
Thank You all for your help!
I decided to replace myself. I am a pretty handy person, but have never done anything like this before. I bought a fuel pump online (you need to talk to the parts guys and be careful which one you buy because there are several for same year. Need to go off of VIN/Engine type) for $200 from Rock Auto.
I dropped the tank, (hint those fuel lines can be tricky but you do not need any special tools as most people say, just a screwdriver and take your time). I was surprised how rusted the fuel pump was for an ’08. The locking ring was fused on. Took about an hour with a hammer, chisel, and WD40 to get that sucker loose. Pretty much destroyed it also. Replaced pump (inside of tank looked great (no debris). While reinstalling the pump I accidentally snapped off the fuel pressure sensor. (I think the neighbors could hear me cursing 5 blocks away). Couldn’t use the old one because I snapped that one while taking the tank out. So the 4 hour job just got longer.
The next day I bought the sensor and new locking ring locally, replaced swapped out the pump. Ran into an issue not being able to close the locking ring all the way. I beat on the thing forever. Grease didn’t help. Finally ended up making a key that would lock the ring in place so it cannot come undone. Next time I may end up buying a lock ring wrench to help. I think even with that I wouldn’t have been able to get it. It’s like the o-ring was too big.
Engine starts up and runs great now! I will say that the moment of turning the key was pretty suspensful. I was expecting to hear a click and be back at square one. Learned a new skill and saved myself about $700, not too bad.
Thank You all for your help!
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