1998 Suburban - no start - haven't figured it out yet...
May 5th, 2013, 8:09 AM
#31
Not exactly, Kevin.
Quote from Actron®
What are Pending Codes?
OBD II Pending Codes are also referred to as “continuous monitor” and “maturing codes”. An intermittent fault will cause the computer to store a pending code in memory. If the fault does not recur within 40 warm-up cycles, the code will be cleared from memory. If the fault recurs a specific number of times, the code will then mature into a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and the MIL or “check engine” light will turn on
Quote from Actron®
What are Pending Codes?
OBD II Pending Codes are also referred to as “continuous monitor” and “maturing codes”. An intermittent fault will cause the computer to store a pending code in memory. If the fault does not recur within 40 warm-up cycles, the code will be cleared from memory. If the fault recurs a specific number of times, the code will then mature into a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and the MIL or “check engine” light will turn on
May 5th, 2013, 3:12 PM
#32
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Thanks, guys...
Fortunately I have a full set of factory service manuals and that diagram is pretty close to what I have in the book. Mine does show a little differences and one of the things I haven't done any checking on is the VCM.
Could it be that I just have a poor contact problem with one of the plugs on the VCM???????
Fortunately I have a full set of factory service manuals and that diagram is pretty close to what I have in the book. Mine does show a little differences and one of the things I haven't done any checking on is the VCM.
Could it be that I just have a poor contact problem with one of the plugs on the VCM???????
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Stow (September 2nd, 2022)
May 7th, 2013, 5:38 PM
#34
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Me too. I'm now waiting for a friend of a friend, who is a very experienced GM mechanic, stop over to find the little thing that I'm overlooking. I have beer ready. He's out of town until Sunday so not much going on until next week. I'm still looking at things trying to find the issue myself. It's killing me to fail like this......
Thanks for all the help, everyone....
Mark
Thanks for all the help, everyone....
Mark
May 9th, 2013, 6:47 AM
#35
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Do you still have the E3's in there?maybe try a standard set of plugs the coil could be weak and wont jump the standard gap which is why it runs on the smaller gap these trucks seem to hate after market ignition parts
May 9th, 2013, 8:11 AM
#36
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
I reinstalled the E3s. I had purchased a set of A/C Delco iridium plugs and those were the ones that ran with the .035 gap. When those plugs were regapped at .060 they didn't run.
These E3s ran beautifully for a full year and just over 10,000 miles. The tips look great. They still fire smoothly in another engine. They should be working in this one.
Thanks for the ideas.
Mark
These E3s ran beautifully for a full year and just over 10,000 miles. The tips look great. They still fire smoothly in another engine. They should be working in this one.
Thanks for the ideas.
Mark
May 23rd, 2013, 8:57 PM
#37
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Well, final update. The truck is running and running great. I had it hauled over to a real mechanic and he found that my new coil just wasn't doing the job. My original diagnoisis was correct but I ended up purchasing a coil that put out a weak spark under load. I had checked the resistance of the windings and found everything within specs but it still wasn't good. So.......I feel a little better knowing that I didn't miss anything.....but I missed a bad coil out of the box. NAPA. Oops.
I do want to thank everyone that offered their ideas and suggestions. It's very much appreciated.
Now I can paint my truck.
Mark
Thanks again.
I do want to thank everyone that offered their ideas and suggestions. It's very much appreciated.
Now I can paint my truck.
Mark
Thanks again.
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Stow (September 2nd, 2022)
March 27th, 2016, 5:11 PM
#38
CF Beginner
Hello, guys and gals.
First time poster but long time lurker. I'd like to first off thank so many of you for helping me out with my issues over the last year that I have been in the shadows. I've learned a lot about my truck and I do want to start helping out others when I can. I've been a long time member of a Fiero forum and hope to help out here, too.
Ok....my issue. I have a '98 Suburban with a Vortec 5.7 that was completely rebuilt just over a year and roughly 10,000 miles ago. Truck has been reliable and running beautifully. Back in February I parked the truck for a couple of weeks just before a nice big snowstorm. I have a snowplow truck that I use when necessary and we had a crappy month for snow so the '98 sat. When I went back to bring it back out it wouldn't start. Crank fine and smooth but no fire. Started to go through stuff and found nothing. When the engine was installed I put in new E3 spark plugs, a set of Bosch spark plug wires and new cap and rotor.
First off, check fuel pressure. Key on, 62 PSI. Cranking 59-61. Fuel gauge is fluttering consistantly which tells me that the injectors are firing. Spark plugs are getting wet. No fuel issue. I do have the replacement Delphi injector set in place of the original CPFI setup so the fuel system on the engine is good. Newer fuel pump and regulator. Good fuel pressure....no issues there. Starting fluid did nothing ( just to eliminate that ).
Second, check spark. Pull coil wire and check for cranking spark. Spark is there. Seems ok. Check spark at the plug. Spark is there. Seems weak but strong enough to fire. Check wires. Wires all have proper resistance including coil wire. Spark plugs? Maybe the E3s aren't holding up. Replaced spark plugs with a nice set of AC/Delco Iridiums.
Now my screw up. I got this truck without an engine. The truck had been purchased for the engine and after the engine was removed I aquired the truck. Bought a motor, had it rebuilt and installed it. I do know that there was some minor damage on the front of the truck in the past and some parts had been replaced including the radiator shroud. When I installed the new plugs I glanced at the emission decal on the shroud and read .035 in. for the gap. Didn't think anything of it. New A/C plugs out of the box had a bigger gap so I regapped them to .035. Installed them and the truck fired right up. No issues, no codes. Shut it off and buttoned everthing up. Didn't drive it at that point.
For the next hour or so something was bugging me about those plugs. I finally looked into it and realized that the .03 gap was wrong and a .060 was the proper gap. Pulled the plugs, regapped them and reinstalled them. No fire. Nothing. No pop. Crank fine. Pulled a plug. Spark. Internet search. More internet search. Found TSB about bad crank sensor throwing off timing by 50 degrees. Fits my problem. Pulled known good crank sensor from another motor and no change. Check ignition control module. Replace cam sensor with known good sensor. Run seperate 12 volt line to input on coil to bypass ignition switch. Check wiring. I'm ready to start it on fire.
I have several knowledgeable guys pulling thier hair out. I'm somewhat knowledgeable myself and have been tinkering with this thing for quite a while with no luck. The weather hasn't been the greatest so I'm not going after it every evening.
Anyone have any thoughts? I appreciate any input.
Thank you for taking the time to read all of this.....
Mark
First time poster but long time lurker. I'd like to first off thank so many of you for helping me out with my issues over the last year that I have been in the shadows. I've learned a lot about my truck and I do want to start helping out others when I can. I've been a long time member of a Fiero forum and hope to help out here, too.
Ok....my issue. I have a '98 Suburban with a Vortec 5.7 that was completely rebuilt just over a year and roughly 10,000 miles ago. Truck has been reliable and running beautifully. Back in February I parked the truck for a couple of weeks just before a nice big snowstorm. I have a snowplow truck that I use when necessary and we had a crappy month for snow so the '98 sat. When I went back to bring it back out it wouldn't start. Crank fine and smooth but no fire. Started to go through stuff and found nothing. When the engine was installed I put in new E3 spark plugs, a set of Bosch spark plug wires and new cap and rotor.
First off, check fuel pressure. Key on, 62 PSI. Cranking 59-61. Fuel gauge is fluttering consistantly which tells me that the injectors are firing. Spark plugs are getting wet. No fuel issue. I do have the replacement Delphi injector set in place of the original CPFI setup so the fuel system on the engine is good. Newer fuel pump and regulator. Good fuel pressure....no issues there. Starting fluid did nothing ( just to eliminate that ).
Second, check spark. Pull coil wire and check for cranking spark. Spark is there. Seems ok. Check spark at the plug. Spark is there. Seems weak but strong enough to fire. Check wires. Wires all have proper resistance including coil wire. Spark plugs? Maybe the E3s aren't holding up. Replaced spark plugs with a nice set of AC/Delco Iridiums.
Now my screw up. I got this truck without an engine. The truck had been purchased for the engine and after the engine was removed I aquired the truck. Bought a motor, had it rebuilt and installed it. I do know that there was some minor damage on the front of the truck in the past and some parts had been replaced including the radiator shroud. When I installed the new plugs I glanced at the emission decal on the shroud and read .035 in. for the gap. Didn't think anything of it. New A/C plugs out of the box had a bigger gap so I regapped them to .035. Installed them and the truck fired right up. No issues, no codes. Shut it off and buttoned everthing up. Didn't drive it at that point.
For the next hour or so something was bugging me about those plugs. I finally looked into it and realized that the .03 gap was wrong and a .060 was the proper gap. Pulled the plugs, regapped them and reinstalled them. No fire. Nothing. No pop. Crank fine. Pulled a plug. Spark. Internet search. More internet search. Found TSB about bad crank sensor throwing off timing by 50 degrees. Fits my problem. Pulled known good crank sensor from another motor and no change. Check ignition control module. Replace cam sensor with known good sensor. Run seperate 12 volt line to input on coil to bypass ignition switch. Check wiring. I'm ready to start it on fire.
I have several knowledgeable guys pulling thier hair out. I'm somewhat knowledgeable myself and have been tinkering with this thing for quite a while with no luck. The weather hasn't been the greatest so I'm not going after it every evening.
Anyone have any thoughts? I appreciate any input.
Thank you for taking the time to read all of this.....
Mark
Crank but no start:
Bi-annual Ignition Control Module cured this issue, started right up and on my way
Bought 3 modules on eBay for $33.00 as spares/diagnostics.
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Stow (September 2nd, 2022)
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