2000YukonXL

Greetings!

So I'm taking the family down to Florida next week in the Yukon. We leave Friday after work. My driver side window has been stuck in the up position for a year or so. It would be nice to roll the window down while we are in Florida cruising around here and there.

Tried to fix it last night and have been unsuccessful so far. I have an idea what may be the issue but wanted to bounce if off some of you to see if you agree.

I'm also hoping to have a path planned out tonight so that I an work as efficiently as possible to get the issue resolved and finished tonight.

I guess if it comes down to it I will hard wire my own switch directly to the window so that I can make it go up and down.

Here is what I have done so far.

First, I searched for a fuse to no avail. All I found was "PWR WDO" Relay. I tried swapping the relay with the matching 25 relay also in the fuse box and still no success.

Next, I wanted to eliminate the switch. I pulled off the switch panel and figured out how to make the passenger side window go up and down directly in the plug. I was unable to make the driver window go up and down however so I believed that the switch is fine.

My assumption at this point was that the motor was the problem so I purchased a motor/regulator combo and replaced.

In order to move the track up so that I could connect the window, I hooked up the switches and failed. The motor still is not moving when I use the switch. Tried directly in the plug to no avail.

So, my thinking is that this is a broken wire where the door harness comes out of the truck and goes into the door. Where it hinges.

I tried checking continuity between the pluth that goes to the switch, and the fuse block. Should I see continuity between each of the wires there? Some show continuity, some don't. I'm not sure how to interpret that.

I'd be thrilled to hear your thoughts.

Thanks a million for your time.

73shark

Welcome to the forum.

I'd first verify power to the driver side switch. Then verify that the driver side switch is applying power to the harness side of the switch. Then check continuity of the wiring to the motor. Be sure to check that the ground side is actually grounded back to the battery.

You can also try applying 12 VDC directly to the motor connector down contact.

2000YukonXL

There was a broken wire between the door and the body.

I removed the entire harness to gain access, repaired and reassembled using the old regulator and motor.

Everything is working like a charm.

Thanks a million for your help!

If anyone finds this looking for info. There are a couple things that I would recommend before assuming this is switch or motor.

1. Turn key on, roll window up or down button and wiggle the bundle of wires between the body and door.

2. Also, for a while I remember that i couldn't roll the windows up or down without the door beeing closed. The window has been out for more than a year so I had forgotten that, but it was important in diagnosing. The reason, I'm sure, was that the wire was not touching when the dooor was open, but it was when closed.

3. Try to test the motor directly. Had I done that, I would have known that the motor was good before replacing it.

I'm not sure my continuity test worked correctly, but I would also do what you can to test continuity between the switch plug, the motor, and the fuse block.

Take your time and you will see it through.

Good Luck!

oldchevy

It still could be a fuse. You say you couldn't find one. Keep looking in both fuse boxes. If you can't find it check all the fuses before you get into anything major.

73shark

2000YukonXL: Thanks for reporting back the solution. Could help others in future. By any chance was the break in the harness between the door and the jamb?

95z28m56conv

Since this is the post I will use to confirm my troubleshooting, I ask the following:

Driver Window Switch - -
Can I replace just that switch or does the entire unit need to be replaced...
Seems to be a waste for one switch bad to replace the whole assembly and get the mirrors reprogrammed.

Thanks,
Marc