CMate

New member here and hello to all.

I've tried searching for the problem i'm having but with no luck so i hope this isn't a repeat thread of a common problem that i've somehow missed.

Ok here's my problem. I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe LS 4x4 5.3L V8. Almost every time i start my car in the mornings and get on the highway headed to work i seem to always have a problem with my brakes sticking. It feels like i'm driving with one foot on the accelerator while the other is slightly pressing the brakes. After i've been driving for about 20-30 minutes my wheel feels like it's shaking and my steering wheel starts to rumble. When i get off at my exit and come to a complete stop at my first red light i can literally take my foot off of the brake and my vehicle will not move 1 inch. When i get to my job and get out i smell something burning and sometimes see smoke but not always. After letting the vehicle cool down for about 20-30 minutes i start it up again and it will drive fine without any problems even if i decided to take the highway again. The Brake light is the only light that has come on at this point and it stays on constantly unless i turn the engine off and back on again. The brake light usually doesn't come on again until i put it in gear and start moving. Most of the time it's a solid light, other times in may blink erratically in no particular pattern.

Today and took it to a Chevy Dealership as i learned about a recall on wheel speed sensors for my vehicle. The dealership cleaned the hubs and re-installed the sensors. They told me that all of the speed sensors checked out ok but the EBCM shows code C0265 and my brake pads were pretty worn even thought i had recently replaced the front brake pads and the rear shoes less than 6 months ago.

In 2012 alone i've replaced these parts:

Drivers side Hub Bearings
Front Pads and Rear Shoes
Brake Line
Drivers side Front Brake Caliper
Drivers side Hub Assembly Kit with ABS

My next step is to replace the Stop Light Switch which is only $13 for an after market brand. I really don't want to have to fork over $1000 for a new EBCM if i don't have to.

If anyone has had similar problems or think they might know of a solution feel free to leave a message.

Thanks

CMate

New update

Ok, so i've been doing some searching on this issue and i've also recently purchased a Scanner Tool as well. It seems that a lot of people with the same issue have been spending a pretty good chunk of money by replacing the EBCM. From the information i gathered, i may not have to.

After running a scan using my new toy i came up with the code C0265 again to confirm i do have a Module issue like i explained above. Their is a manufacturer bulletin posted for my year vehicle suggesting that "a poor connection at the EBCM ground is causing unnecessary replacements of brake modules." And it clearly states in capital letters "DO NOT REPLACE THE BRAKE MODULE."

And here are exactly the 5 steps they posted as a correction to this matter.


Perform the following steps to improve the connection of the EBCM Ground:

1. Remove the EBCM Ground. The EBCM Ground is located on the frame beneath the driver's side door. If multiple grounds are found in this location, the EBCM ground can be identified as the heavy (12-gauge) wire.

2. Clean the area, front and back, using a Whiz Wheel®.

3. Install the ground, then the washer and then the bolt to the frame.
Important: It is important to use the bolts, washers and nuts specified in this bulletin.
These parts have been identified due to their conductive finish.

4. Install a washer and nut to the back side of the frame.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 9 N·m (79 lb in).

5. Cover the front and back side of the repair area using Rubberized Undercoating.
An additional check can be made to ensure a good connection for the Battery Cable to Frame ground. It is possible for this ground to cause similar symptoms with the ABS as described above.


I would suggest anyone with the same ABS issue to try this first before spending anywhere close to $1000 for a new EBCM. I hope this information was helpful to someone besides myself. As soon as i get some free time i'm going to give this method a try in hopes of fixing the issue for good. I'll report back with an update as soon as i find out something.

D4gw00d

Thanks for posting that CMate - I'll tuck it away in the memory book for when I need it!

tech2

reguarding the sticking brakes; ever had a brake service done? If you live in the rust belt this should be done yearly. rust will build up under the clips and the pads get stuck in the caliper braket. This has to be cleaned out. Floating calipers must have the pins lubricated.

CMate

You're welcome.

CMate

Hey, thanks for the information. I'll definitely look into having my brakes serviced as i live in Ohio and as you know we get tons of snow in this area. However i did replace the caliper on the driver's side in 2012. I'll try cleaning the others though also to see if that helps. Thanks again for the helpful information.

kfoynes

CMate; I have the same problem with my 2001 Tahoe LS feels like foot is on brake all the time, steering wheel shakes on freeway and burnt rubber smell when we stop. Mechanic wants to replace the master cylinder, but now that I read your post I am thinking it is not the mc. We are not driving it at all now because it is not safe. Have you resolved your problem?