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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

2001 Suburban overheating with A/C on

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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 2:39 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by subfan597
Same thing with my '01 Burb. What gets me is I can drive the truck for 20 minutes at its normal operating temp of about 180 or 190, then the needle rises whether I'm idling or driving through town. New thermostat, hoses and coolant, a newer water pump AND i cleaned the radiator fins as well as pulled the fan clutch and soaked the bi metal coil with PB Blaster and air dried that. AC runs cold but I have to turn that off and put on the heat to get the needle to drop. That the clutch works fine for 20 minutes an then doesn't makes no sense to me. There is plenty of new coolant. I am out of ideas other than to park the Burb in extreme heat and use it only in cooler weather, and since I intended to drive the Burb in the winter verses my car any way, this is all I can come up with.
i did everything you did but I replaced the fan clutch and radiator . I also flushed the system and got all the dexcool out and our normal extended life green stuff in it. I replaced my radiator hoses as well and it works perfect now.
so may want to just replace the radiator and should fix your issue.
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Old May 25, 2020 | 7:21 PM
  #32  
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Fixed my suburban 2002 w 5.3 engine provisionally by removing thermostat during the summer months. I live in McAllen Texas. That fixed the issue on my 2002 suburban. I also have a 2007 avalanche but that one has same engine but electric fans. That truck does not have the overheating Ac problem. So I guess the solution is change good electric fans to provide air flow same as when you are driving down the road at idle and that solved that problem. Hope it helps users.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 6:07 PM
  #33  
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Default Same exact problem 2000 Silverado 5.3

BlackBurb I have done every single thing you’ve done and I really wanna know if you fixed your truck let me know! I’m stumped
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 10:08 AM
  #34  
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We have a 2005 Yukon XL Denali with 6.0l and have had 1994 and 1988 Suburbans with 5.7l engines in Phoenix AZ. None of those ran hot, even when used for towing horses or when idling. The 2005 and the 1994 were white, the 1988 dark blue. The 2005 has electric fans, the others were belt-driven with fan clutches; each of those were on replacement fan clutches too.

Maybe the radiator on 5.3 liter vehicles is smaller?
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 9:03 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 73shark
Welcome to the forum.

Make sure the lower radiator hose still has the spring in it that prevents it from collapsing and restricted coolant flow. Also check the R134a charge in the A/C.
where is this spring exactly
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Old Sep 24, 2020 | 11:41 PM
  #36  
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Welcome to the forum.

It's inside the lower radiator hose to prevent it from collapsing since the water pump creates a lower pressure on the suction side.
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Old Sep 25, 2020 | 10:15 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Branden Braun
where is this spring exactly
I haven't seen a hose coil (spring) in hoses for over 10 years

Last edited by 3Js; Sep 25, 2020 at 10:22 AM.
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