Had a brake leak but was able to easily change the line thanks to the help from this forum. I was told I also needed to bleed the system. That's where I ran into the first problem. When I started with the right-rear, the bleeder valve was literally stuck on. I tried penetrating oil and used a 10mm wrench. It look like it has become a 9mm screw maybe because the sides were worn.

How do I replace the a bleeder screw that is stuck with worn sides? I already got the new bleeder screws but I'm going through hell removing the current ones and I just started. Any videos or write-ups to guide me?

Thanks in advance.

 

the only 100% sure way of removing frozen bleeders screws is to heat the screw to cherry with a torch and then quench it with water. repeat 6x. Once it out, install a new screw.


keep the heat off the flex hose...wrap the hose with a wet rag.


if the screw breaks and you cannot extract it....you will need new calipers.




before you do anything....what leaked? Did the master go dry?

 

The rear axle line was rusted and leaked when I was pulling out of my driveway. Was able to change that with copper-nickle lining from ebay. I made sure the brake fluid level never dropped below min.

What do I use to grab the bleeder screw after heating/cooling, since the sides are kinda worn?

 

vise grip pliers
you should only have to bleed the back in the reservoir did not empty.


next time you replace lines; slightly apply and hold the brake pedal with a long pry bar against the seat. this closes off the ports in the master so it won't empty and stops the constant draining of fluid.