Gents,

You're not going to believe this one, so, mark it on your garage wall for future troubleshooting rules.

After checking the fuel pressure, spark (to the coil, out of the coil), all wiring (numerous times & running everything to ground, etc.), checking the fuel pump relay and fuse along with all the ignition fuses I found the problem. Mind you, this is after being underneath the burb too many times, recharging the battery too many times (too much cranking) and replacing the fuel pump.

The problem was a blown ECM fuse. A simple 10A fuse stuck between two relays had fried. Don't know why but I know this much - when it goes, everything shuts down.

JBC

 

niiiiice. love how those little things getcha. lol

:chug:

 

There is a fuel pump FUSE and a fuel pump RELAY. Did you check the relay? Di hear/feel it click?

Oops you fixed it never mind.

 

The fuel pump in the gastank and the coil packs on the engine both need 12 volts DC electricity to operate. It sounds like neither one(s) are getting 12 volts. This voltage is usually supplied when the ignition key is turned to "on". You need to get a drawing that shows how the 12 volts is supposed to get to these things. Then buy one of those two or three dollar probes that looks like an icepick with a sharp pointed end and the other end with a wire and an alligator clip on it to attach to a good ground connection. When you punch the sharp end through the insulation on a wire -- the light will light inside the probe if there is 12 volts there and the alligator-clip is clipped to a good clean ground. Start at an easily accessible point where voltage should be going to both the fuel pump and the coils. Move backwards or forward until you find why the voltage isn't getting to both the fuel pump and the coils. Could be a bad ignition switch or a loose plug.

 

Now all you have to do is figure out why the fuse blew in the first place.

 

I had a similar problem on my '98. I had taken off the instrument panel to fix some burned out bulbs.

I put the IP back on and I had no lights on the panel except for the PRNDL indicator light. The truck wouldn't run either (just turn over). I was really puzzled and then I noticed that I had blown the 10A #4 "Gauges" fuse. I must have shorted something to ground taking off the panel. Changed the fuse and away I went. As the owner's manual says "Disconnect Battery Cable before working on electrical stuff"

 

Shark,

I've been thinking about that off and on for a few days. Do you think the ECM itself is in trouble?

JBC

 

Trying to get a OEM Nav/DVD for my wife's 2007 suburban LT. It didn't come with one. The dealer is too expensive.Where could I find a reasonably priced one? Also, is it something that I could do myself?

 

Maybe but probably won't know unless it blows the fuse again. Might check the wiring on the line that the fuse protects.

 

Several have reported the DVD available on ebay for ~ $100.

Easy to do, check the Nav Manual.