Hey thought I'd post here to see if any of y'all have heard of or know how to fix this issue:

For the past 2ish years, I've had this issue happen probably 8-10 times. I get in the truck and turn the key to the "on" position. The radio/lights/air all come on just fine. When I turn it to the "start" position, everything shuts off and there is no noise(no clicking/no crank/no nothing). When I let go of the key and return it to the "on" position, all of the electronics come back on just fine.
The solution I've found is that I just keep trying and one of the key turns will work and it'll crank no problem. It's taken as little as two tries, to 20 before.

But, this time I tried for hours and two days and it's finally done. The battery is 4 years old but was still holding 14v. Alternator is fine too so don't think it's either of these. I have a suspicion it's something internal and electronic. Right now it's at the shop and they think it's the battery but I've tried to jump it before and that was useless because it's not even clicking when I turn the key.

Anyone hear of anything like this?

Thanks!

 

I'll bet it's time for a new starter. Doubt a battery would cause what you describe. If shop can't find the problem and it happens again, rap the starter with a hammer while a helper holds the key in the start position. If it starts change the starter.

 

anutall" Welcome to the forum.


If it's not the starter, I'd check the ignition switch itself, not the key tumbler.

 

(NOTE : If you have the issue I am describing below this is an insidious problem which does escalate over (TIME 1-2 years) from a simple intermittent no crank from time to time to a full out beating the car with a baseball bat because it wont start AT ALL and you can't figure it out short of contracting ex-NASA employees..!)

I was just researching another issue and saw this. I went through a "no start/no crank" issue a couple years back - NIGHTMARE. Long and short is that it turned out to be the 12V line to the ignition SWITCH. Apparently the fuse box under the hood is going bad and the fuse-to-bus bar contact is not sound. So I could see the voltage (with meter) at the connection by the switch, however, due to loose connections in that fuse box it could not draw the amperage required. Nearly impossible to figure out because you can still measure 12V+ at the wire coming into the ignition switch so you move on thinking all is good here.. One of the ways you can tell if you are not getting proper voltage to the switch (like mine) is you will also start to generate engine fault codes which will tell you lies like you need a new car. Seriously, your a/c fan will fail, the transmission will not shift correctly and will lag start in 3rd gear, 4wd switch will start to act funky and not go into normal 4H and shift out on its own at crank up. It will throw codes pertaining to the transfer case switches. It will even tell you the ignition switch needs replacing. ALL INCORRECT AND ALL SIMPLY BECAUSE YOU ARE NOT GETTING PROPER POWER TO THE IGNITION SWITCH FROM THE BATTERY 12V+. I'm not forking out $350 for a new fuse box so I just ran a hot wire from Battery directly to ignition switch and seems to have resolved. Only God knows how many starters and who knows what have been bought over this issue. Its not a good issue to have. Perhaps just mine but I think not... Makes me so mad just thinking... ...... .........

Here's what I could make of it with a couple of really good guys over here...
http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/thr...-help.1123474/