Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

2007 Suburban 5.3L Oil Pressure Drops, Warning Sounds, Restart Engine, Back to Normal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old March 2nd, 2016, 1:06 PM
  #21  
Official GM Rep
 
Chevrolet Customer Service's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Global Headquarters in Detroit, MI
Posts: 4,163
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Daddyo
New to the Forum. I have exact same problem as BurbFan. '07 Suburban with 110k mi. First time it happened I drove car about 75mi with the warning alarm sounding. I changed the oil and filter and this seemed to solve the problem until today. Same problem. Low oil pressure 0-10 psi. Oil has about 1000 mi on it or 70% oil life remaining. If I rev up the motor pressure picks up enough to turn off warning. There has never been any engine noise, not even lifter ticking.
Welcome to the forum, Daddyo!

We’re sorry to hear that you’ve been experiencing this oil pressure concern in your Suburban. We’d be happy to collaborate with your preferred Chevrolet dealership for a diagnosis to see what repair options are available. If interested, please send us a private message with your VIN, full contact information and preferred dealer.

Helen
Chevrolet Customer Care
Old March 3rd, 2016, 6:36 PM
  #22  
CF Junior Member
 
JPTL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Potomac, MD
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Daddyo
New to the Forum. I have exact same problem as BurbFan. '07 Suburban with 110k mi. First time it happened I drove car about 75mi with the warning alarm sounding. I changed the oil and filter and this seemed to solve the problem until today. Same problem. Low oil pressure 0-10 psi. Oil has about 1000 mi on it or 70% oil life remaining. If I rev up the motor pressure picks up enough to turn off warning. There has never been any engine noise, not even lifter ticking.
Daddyo, give Califokie's post (#17) a close read. I've highlighted the pertinent info. in bold in his quote below. He gives his "two cents" but his advice is worth a million, because it's spot on.
Although a failed sensor is possible, the condition that Califokie describes is much more common and more likely in your case.
He mentions the proper fix which involves removing the sensor and physically cleaning the screen and clearing the debris/sludge buildup..

..but there's a less involved method that will work with some patience:

1. 100 miles before your next oil change, add a quart of Risolene Engine Treatment to the crankcase. You can use Seafoam, or a similar product designed to dissolve sludge. 100 miles is enough to allow the product to make it to the sensor filter and start to dissolve the sludge in the screen. Even though products like Risolene and Seafoam claim that it's okay to keep in the crankcase between oil changes, I tend to doubt that claim. Any product that is solvent based will reduce the viscosity of your oil and reduce its lubricating qualities. I therefore suggest adding the treatment, letting it work in the crankcase for 100 miles or so, then changing the oil and filter
2. Let me guess: you're running conventional oil - or the previous owner ran conventional oil. Change your oil to synthetic - or at least synthetic blend. Besides having better lubricating qualities, and less viscosity breakdown over conventional oil, synthetic doesn't leave residue. It runs much cleaner than conventional, and therefore leaves less deposits.
3. Change your oil at least every 5k miles as opposed to the extended change intervals that the computer calculates. Once you have two or three changes with synthetic under your belt, you can use the computer to determine the change intervals (somewhere in the range of 7k miles).

If you do the three steps that I listed above at each oil change, your sensor screen will gradually become cleaner and less sludgy - and you will likely stop experiencing the 'low oil pressure' symptom.
Also use a quality filter like the AC Delco for good measure. Some cheaper filters have been known to collapse and restrict the flow.


Originally Posted by Califokie
If you guys don't mind my two cents... As a professional mechanic in an independent shop, I have ran across several oil pressure issues with the 4.8, 5.3 and the 6.0 GM engines.. Based on the description given in this thread, in2pro hit the nail on the head.. Under the oil pressure switch ( below it in it's mounting hole) is a plastic basket that is sealed with an o-ring and has a metal screen in the bottom of it. It's job is to prevent debris from entering the oil pressure switch. It can get dirty and stop oil from entering the switch and cause exactly what is being described here.. After removing the oil pressure switch, reach down into the hole with a small hook tool and lift the basket out, push a new one into the hole and reinstall the switch... I have also fixed some pressure issues by running the factory AC Delco oil filter.. They have a check valve in it designed to maintain oil pressure.. So the factory filters will maintain oil pressure when the aftermarket replacements will allow oil pressure to bleed off in the filter housing because they don't have that check valve in them. It is a minor bleed off but on a worn engine it is just enough to make a difference.
The following users liked this post:
JoeDigi (February 10th, 2022)
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RazzMaTazz
Equinox & Terrain
1
March 18th, 2015 7:09 PM
joepouliotsc
Tahoe & Suburban
14
May 13th, 2014 7:33 AM
not_a_car_dude
Tahoe & Suburban
4
September 15th, 2013 7:41 PM
truck0220
Silverado, Sierra & Fullsize Pick-ups
1
May 19th, 2013 12:55 AM
jgray152
Silverado, Sierra & Fullsize Pick-ups
2
March 18th, 2012 10:36 AM



Quick Reply: 2007 Suburban 5.3L Oil Pressure Drops, Warning Sounds, Restart Engine, Back to Normal



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 7:43 PM.