ZX1100F1

No. I was not saying that you should have checked your own batter, the car is under warranty and that is not your responsibility nor do most folks have the proper equipment to properly discern the overall condition of a battery.

Most good service centers will do a load check of a battery in the drive immediately if the symptoms of a faulty battery exist.

SWRidin

Right, thanks for the clarification. I didn't have any way of checking the battery except to take time off from work pull it and drive to have it tested. Due the the history of the vehicle, I assumed it was the old major problem.

golfngator

I had the same sort of problem with my 07. I had two occasions that the battery just died and the truck wouldn't do anything. I called a buddy of mine who is a service writer at a local dealership and he said he had seen that before and that there was some sort of recall for a "batery run down program". Took it in to him he did a reprogram and have not had the problem again. This might be something to look into.

ZX1100F1

That as correct and a good point.
There is a TSB to reprogram the BCM to correct certain battery related issues, you should have the dealer double check that the latest BCM calibration is loaded once the replacement battery is installed.

SWRidin

Thanks for the help guys, ... I got the Tahoe back yesterday. It has been working fine. They told me they replaced the "remote control door lock" ... I think he said "sensor" ... which is somehow related to the "tire system". I scribbled ita note down, but I can't read my ownwriting.I have to get the 2nd key fob reprogrammed so I told them the earliest I can take it back is until next Monday. On Monday I'll make sure to have the latest BCM TSB applied.

By the way, the tahoe feels a lot looser with the stock 20's on. It feels lighter and more wobbly. Even the wife noticed. I liked the way it felt with the 24's. They felt heavier and more stable. The wider stance probably helped. I'm trying to keep them off until next summer. Just to save some rubber since the stock 20's are still brand new.

Happy Thanksgiving to all on this forum!

agoodman

I think I bought a lemon, too. Bought my 07 LT2 at the end of September and experienced several issues with the electrical system. We went out of town in October and cold started the truck and immediately had error messages on the display (DCM?) saying that the Stabilitrak was off, rear park assist off. The door locks were repeatedly locking and the rear assist lights in the back panel were blinking/beeping intermittently. All of the gauges were dipping. Contacted OnStar and they got some error codes from vehicle, but said thatit should be safe to drive. We drove to the nearset dealer, approx. 25 miles away and by then all of the symptoms were gone with the exception of the check engine light. That dealer did nothing because it was the weekend and this small-town dealer didn't open the service dept. on the weekend. So I drove back into town with no problems and took to the dealer where I purchased the vehicle. Dealer couldn't find anything wrong and gave back the car. I didn't have any issues for a month and then experienced the exact same problems. I drove to the dealer immediately and dealer told me that he replaced a terminating resistor. Tahoe was fine for 6 days until it did the same thing again. Dealer has now had the car for the past two weeks and keeps telling me something new every time I call. He's replaced the BCM, the VCIM, the gear-select leverand says there's another resistor now needing to be replaced. Keeps getting a "No communication" reading. The area GM rep has had to come to the dealer and look at the car - they haven't resolved anything yet.

I guess if this happens one more time that it is subject to my state lemon law? Is there anything I should be doing at this point other than documenting everything? Has anyone out there gone through the process of getting rid of a lemon? Is it the dealer who decides whether the vehicle will be replaced with a new one or give all of the money back to me? Give me some suggestions of what to do in my situation.

Thanks

egrigson

Bought an 07 LT3 last December - ran fine for about 2 months - then suddenly (while the wife is driving) the power locks start locking/un-locking an the guages start going blank - then the truck just dies and everything locks up (sterring, brakes, etc.) - luckily the wife was on a side street and able to coast to a stop... Dealer tows the vehicle in and works on it for several days replacing "computers" or BCM's or something - says it's fixed. Drives fine for 2 weeks and then happens AGAIN - dead truck rolling down the road with my wife and kids in it - wife is panicked and the dealer tows in again - dealer get's vehicle off tow-truck and cannot "duplicate" the problem and there are no "codes" in the computer. Dealer does some other TSB's along with fixing an intermittent problem with the driver power seat and delivers the vehicle back to the wife. Get a call 2 hours later that it started the locking/unlocking again and the wife pulled over to a parking lot (a sensible thing to do) - dealer then asks if the vehicle is running and says she has to DRIVE to the dealership - I tell her to pay for the tow if she has to but she wasn't driving it anywhere.

Dealer then has the vehicle for 2+ weeks and cannot trace the issue - GM Customer Care is called and opens tickets, sends techs to look at the car but the vehicle displays no problems after the car was towed to the dealership. The wife is panicked that GM will make her drive the deathtrap (she loves the car but refuses to drive this lemon - more on that later) - GM Customer Care doesn't "Care" about our issues and offers no Buy-Back and indicates that we should use our state's Lemon Law if we want to persue since they can't find anything wrong with the vehicle... Lemon Law takes at least 60 - 90 days to get heard and then can be another 30-45 days for a "decision" to be made - so I would be stuck renting a vehicle for 3-5 months at $1200 per month... Dealer is being very helpful but GM is pulling the "they need to take the vehicle back as we're not authorizing any more tech hours on it" and they had given us a demo unit for the 2+ weeks thus far.

Dealer makes an offer to trade the vehicle in because the wife still loves the vehicle (ride quality, size, features, styling) and gives us a "fair" trade-in value (which I verified with some other dealers first) and we get the GM employee-level pricing plus a bunch of red tag rebates at the time - so the net is that I lost $6k on the trade (gained a rear-seat dvd player that the original model didn't have) due to mileage and depreciation...nice. Dealer said it would be sold at auction with a detailed sticker listing the issues that were experience with the vehicle (wife was hesitant because she was worried someone else would be hurt in the vehicle but we didn't really have any choice).

The "new" 07 Tahoe LT3 has been flawless up until 2 weeks ago when the wife has noticed a transmission "clunk" when stopping at lights/stop signs - anyone have an info on that (with the holidays we haven't had the opportunity to be without it yet)?

ZX1100F1

The little bump that you may notice while stopped on occasion is a normal occurrence that happens when either the torque converter clutch unlocks, the downshift into 1st gear actually occurs or the transmission pump pressure is relaxed while at idle in gear, this normally goes unnoticed but sometimes if certain conditions are just so it can be felt in the vehicle.

GM engineering is working on an updated piece of software that will eliminate this annoyance but it will by no means pose any reliability issues.

CHEVY670207

Whats up guys have an 07 tahoe 2000 miles, day after Christmas truck was dead in the driveway, not a light not a click dead. Didn't think much of it, boosted the battery and the truck was as good as new. Next morning dead as a doornail. Boosted it again and dragged it to the dealer, two days later picked it up with the dealer telling me that it was a defective batter so the battery was replaced and was sent on my way. Four days later dead as a doornail in my driveway again. Boosted it and dragged it to the dealer again. Two days later went to pick it up and was told the same thing, a bad battery. Really I said what are the odds, very slim the dealer said but was sent on my way again. Three days later dead as a doodnail again. This time I took matters into my own hands, a friend of mine owns a mechanics shop and brought it there, hooked up a meter to the batter which showed some disturbing news. The draw on the battery when the car is off is according to chevy is .027 milliamps. My battery was reading .380, thatsmore than 10 times what its supposed to be.My buddy said to take it to the dealer and tell them to check for a parasidic draw in the car. So today I dropped the truck off to the dealer and made the service rep aware of the problem. By the way the rep has never heard of a parasidic draw but assured me the tech would find the problem. Any advice from anyone is more than welcome, and I'll keep you guys posted

tahoe07

As has been stated like 100 times on this site and above. Have the dealer check for all of the latest reprograms for your truck.

There are several updates to address this issue!!

I might consider seeing another dealer. The above set of events is ridiculous.