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2011 2500 Suburban - Questions about 20" wheels

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Old August 17th, 2014, 11:53 AM
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Default 2011 2500 Suburban - 20" wheels [solved, see post 16 for details & pics]

Hello all,
I'm brand new to the Forum, and I'm also the proud new owner of a 2011 2500 LT Suburban! I found this gem used and the owner took amazing care of it. It's complete stock, including the wheels. So I'm looking to upgrade them to something 20" in size. Here are my questions:

1. Can I simply put on 20" (8 lug) wheels and be done?
2. Do I need a special size offset due to the 2500's larger brakes, axles, etc?
3. While I'm happy with the "stance" the way it is, I would prefer the Burb to set level. Stock suspension has it sitting higher it the rear. Is there something I can do to bring lift the front so it sits level?

Here's a pic.




Thanks!

Last edited by JCUMV; December 16th, 2014 at 1:51 AM.
Old August 18th, 2014, 7:01 AM
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I assume you bought the 2500 to tow, so adding something to the hitch will level it out

the 20" on the 1500 platform all use a 6 lug setup... but I don't see why you couldn't go aftermarket..
Old August 18th, 2014, 9:18 AM
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https://www.customwheeloffset.com/

My buddy in town runs the website. They ship to your door with rubber.
Old August 18th, 2014, 1:38 PM
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Just a couple tips in your selection...

The width of the tire, should be the same as the width of the Rim.
Better performance and control.

Select the "LT" type tire.
Burbs and Hoes are actually Trucks.

I don't know what size you're running now, but adjusting the Profile (height) of the sidewall, may keep the speedometer and other issues nearer factory specs (OEM overall diameter).

Lower Profile Tires, should be run at higher pressure (near MCIP*).
To avoid compression of the sidewall which may cause sidewall (road hazard) damage.
To take advantage (when loaded) of available Load Rating. Lower Profile Tires load ratings (50/40/30) are usually well lower than more substantial profiles (70/60).

PS:
Very nice looking ride !

*= MCIP, Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure.
Stamped on the Sidewall of the Tire.

Last edited by SWHouston; August 18th, 2014 at 1:41 PM.
Old November 12th, 2014, 12:12 AM
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Okay guys... I need to bump this and give an update.

So I'm having an AWFUL time getting 20's to go on this Burb! I found a pair of 20x9 wheels with a +10mm offset. All good so far. Here's the issue, because it's a 2500, I'm being told by the guy at Americas Tire (he is the store manager and I've been taking my vehicles to him for 5 years) that I need to run an LT Load E rated tire. We stuck some 285/55/20 Nitto Grapplers on it and it rubbed in the front wheel wells a ton!

We then took it down the street to a suspension and alignment shop and the owner there lifted the front 1.5" by using the Torsion adjustment. He then re-aligned the vehicle. The Burb sits totally level now, and the I like the stance a lot. But the damn tires STILL rub in the front.

We then changed tires to a 275/55/20 Load D (which isn't even legal according to the Americas Tire manager) and even that tire rubbed on the front and back of the fender well! According to their computers, all of these wheel/tire scenarios should fit.

So I'm a total loss here, guys! I don't want to lift the Burb any more than it is. I can't see why I can't put some kind of LT tire on a 20" wheel and have it fit. I see soccer mom's rolling in Escalade ESV's running 22" wheels all day long. Same exact body. I get that it's a 1500 and they're running low profile tires, but there has to be a happy medium here.

Asking for 20" wheels on my 2011 3/4 ton Suburban doesn't seem unreasonable... or am I wrong?

Thanks!
Old November 12th, 2014, 12:47 AM
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Unless you are going to be towing/carrying some pretty heavy loads, Load Range "E" is really too stiff a tire for normal street use. Most everyone (Hoe's/Burbs) run LT/C's.

I'm a little confused about the rim size...
You need to know three things about what "isn't working now"...
Width, Diameter and Offset.

Then, regardless of what the Mfg says...
Pick a Rim which has the...
Same Width,
Same Diameter and
a greater "positive/outward" offset.

The correct process should be...
Select the Tire you like.
Select a Rim which is the same width and diameter as the Tire.
Given the Profile of that Tire, select the Offset of the Rim, to move everything away from the frame/inter wheel well so it won't rub.

Now, if you haven't selected a size Tire that is really too large for the space you are trying to put it in, and that causes rubbing on the rim of fender/outer wheel well, then you got it.
Old November 12th, 2014, 7:39 AM
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I wouldn't mess with moving away from the E load range tires. If you look at your door stickers, GM recommends tire inflation pressures of 50 PSI front and 71 PSI rear. In other words, they've designed the ride and suspension to be optimal at those inflation pressures.

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If you switch to C tires, they're designed to be run at 35 PSI. That might change the handling and ride characteristics in a bad way, especially in a situation where a sharp/emergency maneuver is required.

The 2500s weigh about 900 lbs more than the half-ton trucks (6500 vs 5600 lbs curb weight), they have a higher GVWR (8600 vs 7200), and can handle more payload (2000 lbs vs 1500 lbs). I'd be very hesitant to put lighter-duty tires on it.

Also, whatever tire company puts the C tires on your truck is assuming liability for putting the incorrect tires on your vehicle. Most/All probably won't even do it. The best you could hope for is to bring them some loose wheels, and then have them mount the tires.

You're driving, IMHO, the ultimate bad-*** SUV on the road. It has a unique look/stance that sneers at half-ton Suburbans, Yukon XLs and even Escalade ESVs. Enjoy it for what it is.

ETA - be careful with the cranking your torsion bars. If you go too far you could be putting undue stress on your front CV joints. You shouldn't see more than two bellows touching. More than that, and you're angle is too steep.

Last edited by intheburbs; November 12th, 2014 at 8:01 AM.
Old November 12th, 2014, 11:00 AM
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@intheburbs - I'm loving my new Burb. It is a bad *** SUV and most think it's the same as theirs, only with a slight lift to it. Ha. What you're describing with regards to the tire stores is exactly what's happening. My buddy said he'd look the other way and put a D tire on it, but they wouldn't be able to service it (tire rotations, flat fixes, etc). Problem is, none of the E rated tires will fit on a 20x9 with +10 offset. I found a Fuel Offroad wheel I like, with a +20 offset, but my buddy doesn't think that will fit either. Do you know of one that will fit?
On the Torsion bar, he adjusted it only 1.5" and the Burb is now almost level. He did a solid job on the alignment and it rides just fine. The CV angle is not harsh at all. When we tried to fit the tires and realized we needed more height, he said I could go to GM and get a torsion key set which would allow us to raise it even higher. I politely said no. I don't want it any higher than it is now. I should probably note that this Burb is my wife's primary vehicle, not mine, and it's used for moving our kids to school, sports, mall, etc. So I can't go crazy with the suspension.

@SWHouston - It never occurred to me to find the tire first, then the wheel. But regardless, the Americas Tire computer is telling us that the 285/55/20 Nitto Grapplers E tire will fit... and it's not even in the ballpark. So even if I did this, I think I'd still be in the same circumstance. You mentioned in your post to first select the tire... do you know of one that I should be looking at?

Has anyone successfully running a 20" wheel and E load tire combo on a 2007-2012 3/4 Burb? (without doing more than a leveling kit).

Thanks!
Old November 12th, 2014, 12:18 PM
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Go check out some of the HD pickup forums (fora?). I'm sure there are a bunch of guys that have custom wheels/tires on their 8-lug trucks.
Old November 12th, 2014, 12:22 PM
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JCUMV,

My apologies, intheburbs has brought up a very good point.
If GM requires you to use "E" Load Rating, then do so.


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