2017 Tahoe LT brake upgrade
#1
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Soon I'll be replacing the rotors and pads on my 2017 Tahoe and I'm wondering how beneficial it would be to go to slotted and drilled rotors. I don't believe I need to replace the calipers yet and I'm also thinking about going with SS brake lines.
How long do the rubber brake lines last and are there any recalls on them?
What kind of issues should I expect when/if I go with slotted and drilled rotors front and back?
How long do the rubber brake lines last and are there any recalls on them?
What kind of issues should I expect when/if I go with slotted and drilled rotors front and back?
#2
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flex hoses can last a long time. I never replace them unless i have an issue...ie brake drag or cut hose. As long as the callipers aren't leaking and push back easily they do not need replacement. I bet you never notice a difference with slotted drilled rotors.
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repairman54 (August 23rd, 2021)
#3
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No improvement with slotted or drilled rotors. That's for track or autocross racing to dissipate heat in major heavy braking. In a salt zone then go with coated rotors to slow down rust. It's all I use in my fleet. Drilled and slotted rust like crazy in a salt zone, learned that the ''easy'' way a long time ago.
Stainless lines didn't help my old '99 Yukon at all. Wasn't worth the time and money putting them in for a street vehicle. On the old 'yuk it only had single piston calipers and the only thing that would have helped it was a caliper upgrade.
I've had rubber lines last 250k miles on multiple cars/trucks. Replace when cracking appears on them or other issues like tech2 says.
Coated rotors and quality ceramic pads is all you need. I've been using Wagner OEX pads in my fleet since the last brake jobs on them, towing with the Tahoe seems to have improved tow stopping a little and low dusting.
A lot of performance pads are real dusty, for me not worth the slight improvement on the street of riding around with dirty black rims needing cleaning all the time. EBC that I've tried are real dirty.
Stainless lines didn't help my old '99 Yukon at all. Wasn't worth the time and money putting them in for a street vehicle. On the old 'yuk it only had single piston calipers and the only thing that would have helped it was a caliper upgrade.
I've had rubber lines last 250k miles on multiple cars/trucks. Replace when cracking appears on them or other issues like tech2 says.
Coated rotors and quality ceramic pads is all you need. I've been using Wagner OEX pads in my fleet since the last brake jobs on them, towing with the Tahoe seems to have improved tow stopping a little and low dusting.
A lot of performance pads are real dusty, for me not worth the slight improvement on the street of riding around with dirty black rims needing cleaning all the time. EBC that I've tried are real dirty.
Last edited by repairman54; August 23rd, 2021 at 9:41 AM.
#4
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stainless lines are expensive and harder to bend. The best rust resistance and bend easy without kinking is cupric nickel lines; just make sure they are secured well every 2 or three feet. When you start line replacement; slightly depress the brake pedal with a pry bar wedged against the seat. this keeps the replenishing/compensation ports closed in the mc and it will not bleed out. this makes bleeding much faster.
#5
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I installed slotted rotors on my 2017 LT. I think it stops better. They were not smooth like the OE rotors. It kind of feels like a warped rotor. They have gotten better with time, but still not as smooth as OE.
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