Ranger1007

Hello all...Before I get yelled at for not reading previous posts...I have, on numerous forums, seen vids on youtube, and looked through plenty of manuals including the 4 manual set from GM and am ready to push this thing over a hill.
I have a 98 k2500 454 auto Suburban..fully loaded, every option I know of available, and the only reason I mention options, is the fact Ive tried every "fix" I've found from turning on dome lights, shutting the doors, and unhooking the battery and tapping the positive side three times to reset the passlock system, to the 10 minute on, five second off, three time, "no problem" key re-learn, with NO SUCCESS. SO...from the beginning, Bought the truck as a great deal..guy told me that it was bought from a fire department and ran great, something about running it out of gas one night, went to bed, got up the next morning to find a dead battery...changed battery, tripped the security system, and couldn't figure it out...tired of messing with it, he sold it to me. He then goes on to tell me that he didn't understand it was the security system, only after trying to switch a bunch of parts off of a 97 small block suburban (tps, mas, maf, etc.)...and I bought it. After playing with it for a bit, realizing it was the passlock system, I went through the procedure of 10/5 on off three times and got the security light to go off...tried starting it, and the engine would spit, sputter...put a fuel pressure gauge on it, it showed 35/40 ish lbs...Ordered a new fuel "module"...pump, sender, plastic spring loaded "unit"...put the thing in, set the tank back up in the truck, went to start it..and the damn security light was blinking again...ok, did the 10/5 thing again...got the security light to go out (meaning, I would turn the key on to start the truck, the security light would go out, engine would start, then die about 3 to 5 seconds later, and the light would blink a couple of times and go out)...Try to start it again, it would run, then die...No security light on solid, no blinking light. End of day, go into the house, come out the next morning...try to start it, and it wouldn't fire..NOTHING but cranking..over and over, not even a spit or sputter. During all of this I might add...no codes read on my scanner. Give up for the day and back to the books and videos thinking I missed something. Next day..Turn the key, haven't changed a thing, and it starts, runs 3/4 seconds and dies..this time the security light blinks...ok, did the re-learn thing again..turn the key to run, security light goes off, try to start it, it runs 3/4 seconds and dies. WTF am I doing wrong? Is there something I'm missing? Oil pressure sender? I don't have a bi-directional reader, don't have a thousand bucks for one, just looking to get the thing started and know it has to be something simple as it runs...not very long, but it will run. What am I doing wrong?

Irish_alley

have you looked up on how to bypass the VATS system?

Ranger1007

Yes, and can't decide which is the best or most trouble free way to do it...have even seen posts on the Newrockies, which is supposed to be the "go to" way to do it...but got nervous when I started reading the customer comments and problems with the company, tech support, returns, etc. Looking for an inexpensive way to just get rid of the passlock, and am thinking there really isn't one, and day by day thinking the purchase was a huge mistake...then the thing will fire up and run for a second, and all I can think is "this can't be too big of a problem"...I'm just overwhelmed with the whole thing. Too much information out there, and hard to decipher who is right and who is wrong...make any sense?

falconbrother

Ranger1007, I have a 2000 Suburban 1500, 5.3 with passlock. I was getting the security light and things were getting worse. I was in a bit of a panic as this is my daily driver and I use it to tow my RV throughout the year. I need my Suburban. I bought the NewRockies pro-module. I held on to it for a few months because I had important trips coming and I didn't want to further break my truck. The security light was an intermittent issue, at that time. About a month or so ago the light started coming on every day. I knew it was about to leave me stranded. Nervously I installed the promodule. So far it's is working flawlessly. I wish I had just gone ahead and installed it when I fist got it. Yes, it's spendy but, it works as advertised.

About customer support. It's slower than I would have liked. But, if you read the instructions carefully it should work first time. When it says splice then just splice the wire in. When it says cut then cut the wire and connect the newrockies exactly as the instructions say. Take your time. I screwed it up when I first installed it and it didn't work. I didn't pay attention to the cut vs. splice instructions. When I figured out what I had done I fixed it, did the relearn and she fired right up. Now I feel completely comfortable that this won't be an issue again. I don't think just doing the relearn with a failed security system will work for you. I guess it depends on which part broke.

As a side note.. I looked into the resistor install and I did the little wedge in the connector on the ignition switch. The wedge thing did nothing. The resistor install isn't satisfactory to me. I want it as close to right as I possibly can. I get jack squat from Newrockies for saying good things about their product. I'm just telling me experience. I was so frustrated that I was ready to take the old girl to the junk yard in spite of the fact that everything else was perfect. I took my time so the install took me about an hour. If I had to do it again it would take 20 minutes, excluding the re-learn procedure. Nevertheless, I can relate to your frustration. The module worked absolutely perfectly for my 2000 model with passlock. I suspect that it will work perfectly for passkey as well, assuming that's the issue. I do know that when the passkey/passlock is activated it runs for about a second and shuts off so, that does sound like the symptom. I also know that these security systems have about a 100% failure rate. The newrockies apparently bypasses the entire thing and sends the run command straight to the computer.

Little Bear

On my 2000 C2500 I used the get it started and running and pull the module method. Has eliminated my problems, the only down side with this method for you is that the engine has to be running while you pull the module.

Ranger1007

OK...here's where we are for todays fun and festivities...Yesterday, got ahold of a friend of mine who graciously told me I could strip any parts off his 97 k1500 Suburban that he rolled into a little ball, but still ran when he got done beer canning it. I took the passlock/bcm from under the dash (pt# 16244555) and cross refernced the number with any and all listings from numerous sources and got....maybe it will, maybe it wont fit and function...Hard to tell since GM doesn't offer the part any longer, and all was left with was ebay, amazon, other smaller retailers who give varied descriptions with minimal details. Anyone? Open for opinions on this one.
The next group of parts that went into the bucket were a crank position sensor, throttle sensor, oil sender, distributor, temp sender, egr unit, that was about all I could get to without some hours spent with a can opener. If it's something else, I'm just going to have to go buy it.
And here's a thought...if I have to pump too much money into this thing, I had an idea to solve all this hassle...get rid of the electronic spaghetti all together. Manifold, 780 Holley, Autometer set, and I'm sure theres a solution for the trans/speed sensor stuff, minus a few incidentals, and just be done with the whole engineered nightmare of non functioning systems, and know that when I jump in the thing to make a run to the strip club...er, I mean, grocery store...it will start, run, shut off, start again, and get my butt home. Whatta ya all think? Because this whole situation is wearing thin on my nerves...Oh yea...I'm calling Newrockies today for the module bypass and will install when the big brown race truck shows up with it.

falconbrother

I think those BCMs are pretty much plug and play. If you plug it in and nothing changes that wasn't the issue. My guess is that it won't work. I have been down that road before.