93 Suburban dies
#1
93 Suburban dies
Changes has been made to this call for help!
I have a 93 Suburban 2 wd with a 350, auto setting at 258,XXX miles. This last few weeks it started dieing when I slow up to stop or at Idle.
ADDED: 8/30/10
I would like to add: There are NO Codes Showing when I did a check for error codes! Due to Low usage and Battery Drain I put a battery disconnect switch on the battery in early spring. When the Suburban is not in use I disconnect the battery while it sets.
I was thinking that it might be the IAC in the TB but now I'm not sure.
1. We don't use it very much so it sets and I added a battery disconnect to not run down the battery.
2. I was thinking that the problem might be in the Distributor so I checked it out and changed the cap and rotor due to wear.
3. I do not see any vac hoses that are bad or even bare wires around the IAC or Dist.
4. I read that to check out the IAC you need to check your RPM, turn off the engine and disconnect the IAC, start up the engine again and check the RPM. Note if RPM rises then turn off the engine and reconnect the IAC. Restart the engine and check the RPM again. If the RPM returns to the original level , your IAC will not be the problem because it is working.
RESULTS OF THIS CHECK: The RPM increased when disconnected and settled back to normal with the IAC connected again.
5. I was concerned about the fuel (reg pump gas 87 oct) so I added 2 bottles of Techron(?) to the fuel tank when filling it up. The additives was suppose to treat 40 gals.
NEXT THING THAT I AM GOING TO TRY: A mechanic friend suggested that I clean the inside of the throttle body with a Oxygen Sensor Safe Cleaner to remove any build up of a coating around the butterfly.
ADDED 8/30/10: The Throttle Body Cleaning did not change the problem with the engine dieing!
I am not that good with cars with computers so I am looking for leads.
I the back of my mind is the mileage and timing chain wear.
I am leaning away from the Dist. Module because I would think that if it went bad it would not function. The same reason that I am not think about the fuel pump.
ADDED 8/30/10: I am at a disadvantage during all this, in trying to fix my problem, as I have been at my daughters house this last week where I do not have my tools or work area.
This is about all that I can thing of now, so if someone has a better idea of the problem I have please let me know.
Thank You
Tony
I have a 93 Suburban 2 wd with a 350, auto setting at 258,XXX miles. This last few weeks it started dieing when I slow up to stop or at Idle.
ADDED: 8/30/10
I would like to add: There are NO Codes Showing when I did a check for error codes! Due to Low usage and Battery Drain I put a battery disconnect switch on the battery in early spring. When the Suburban is not in use I disconnect the battery while it sets.
I was thinking that it might be the IAC in the TB but now I'm not sure.
1. We don't use it very much so it sets and I added a battery disconnect to not run down the battery.
2. I was thinking that the problem might be in the Distributor so I checked it out and changed the cap and rotor due to wear.
3. I do not see any vac hoses that are bad or even bare wires around the IAC or Dist.
4. I read that to check out the IAC you need to check your RPM, turn off the engine and disconnect the IAC, start up the engine again and check the RPM. Note if RPM rises then turn off the engine and reconnect the IAC. Restart the engine and check the RPM again. If the RPM returns to the original level , your IAC will not be the problem because it is working.
RESULTS OF THIS CHECK: The RPM increased when disconnected and settled back to normal with the IAC connected again.
5. I was concerned about the fuel (reg pump gas 87 oct) so I added 2 bottles of Techron(?) to the fuel tank when filling it up. The additives was suppose to treat 40 gals.
NEXT THING THAT I AM GOING TO TRY: A mechanic friend suggested that I clean the inside of the throttle body with a Oxygen Sensor Safe Cleaner to remove any build up of a coating around the butterfly.
ADDED 8/30/10: The Throttle Body Cleaning did not change the problem with the engine dieing!
I am not that good with cars with computers so I am looking for leads.
I the back of my mind is the mileage and timing chain wear.
I am leaning away from the Dist. Module because I would think that if it went bad it would not function. The same reason that I am not think about the fuel pump.
ADDED 8/30/10: I am at a disadvantage during all this, in trying to fix my problem, as I have been at my daughters house this last week where I do not have my tools or work area.
This is about all that I can thing of now, so if someone has a better idea of the problem I have please let me know.
Thank You
Tony
Last edited by DieHard; August 30th, 2010 at 1:23 PM. Reason: Add additional information.
#2
Problem Solved
Well I want to thank all the 80+ people who viewed my problem and I am just sorry that none of you had any ideas to help me.
I may be able to help someone else though by letting everyone know what I finally found that was causing my problem.
It came down to the distributor module. The module has more than one function that just firing the plugs. One side, you might say, provides the ECM with information about the RPM of the engine and this was defective in the module. I took the module to O'Rileys and had them run a check on it and found that the Low RPM and the High RPM checks where bad.
My Scan tool would not give ma a code when I was checking but when I went back to the Paper Clip in the ALDL A + B slots, I found a code 42 which led me to the timing system.
Bottom line.
Don't think that you module is "OK" just because the Dam car runs like a champ on the open road, like I did. I passed this module by numerous times in my checks, only to find the problem there.
I hope this help someone.
DieHard - 71 and still learning!
I may be able to help someone else though by letting everyone know what I finally found that was causing my problem.
It came down to the distributor module. The module has more than one function that just firing the plugs. One side, you might say, provides the ECM with information about the RPM of the engine and this was defective in the module. I took the module to O'Rileys and had them run a check on it and found that the Low RPM and the High RPM checks where bad.
My Scan tool would not give ma a code when I was checking but when I went back to the Paper Clip in the ALDL A + B slots, I found a code 42 which led me to the timing system.
Bottom line.
Don't think that you module is "OK" just because the Dam car runs like a champ on the open road, like I did. I passed this module by numerous times in my checks, only to find the problem there.
I hope this help someone.
DieHard - 71 and still learning!
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