Thanks so much, MD! I turned the dis. counter-clockwise about 3 degrees and it fired right up. I can't believe how simple that was. I will be using a Craftsman scan tool tomorrow so I'm not sure how it is labled on there but I will find out. I appreciate everyone's input. Glad it was a cheap fix this time!

 

Congrats.

 

let us know what scanner you use to check cam to crank correlation i've been looking for a hand held that will do that but havent found one yet maybe i will have to buy one of the older snap-ons off of ebay

 

I used a Craftsman scan tool with live data viewing. It does not have the cam retard like the snap-on does but I was able to view the advance timing and when I snapped the throttle, it would go to zero degrees. I hope I did it right. I have no codes showing and no MIL light. I had two oxygen sensor codes besides the P1345 and they're both gone now, have not come back after 50 miles of driving.

 

Cam retard and spark advance are not the same thing, of course. The cam retard is there to locate the distributor just right so that the rotor makes electrical contact with the right post on the cap under varying spark advance conditions.

 

Tried and replaced everything to fix a "random (P300) and cylinder 4 misfire (P304)"
So far:
New plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil, distributor, gas injector spider, compression 140 lbs, they put scope in to watch valves, over $1000 spent but light still came on and codes back
Any advice with your experience?
The last suggestion was an O2 sensor?
John